Hokkaido Travel: What to See and What to Do
Best place to drive in Japan
Renting a car and touring is easy in Hokkaido - probably easier than anywhere else in Japan for foreign visitors, and with access to the big national parks limited to sometimes lengthy train and bus connections, it is the most conveinent way to get around in a short time. But be warned that the distances are LARGE and apart from expressways many roads are one lane meandering courses through farmland and small villages - so covering the distances can take longer than expected. Also of course, from late November to April there is snow and ice. And of course... beware of wild animals: bear, deer and fox. The Kushiro and HIdaka coastline has some earthquakes and there are signs for Tsunami warnings and evacuation points.
Tolled expressways connect Sapporo with Asahikawa, Yubari, Oshamambe and Otaru. Non-expressway - but good roads also connect sections of the routes to Obihiro, Kushiro and Kitami.
Information and planning
Check out the Northern Road Navi website for maps, travel times, toll charges, seasonal info about weather etc
Basic driving in Japan info at Japan Guide. You need an International License.
Most people hire cars in either Chitose, Asahikawa or Kushiro airports, or Sapporo, Asahikawa, Furano, Abashiri and Hakodate.
You don't need a car to visit Sapporo and Otaru, there is a good, regular train service between the two cities and its a day trip.
Popular areas to drive are:
Furano and Biei - farmland with flower fields and small guest houses. JR Hokkaido now has a good train and local bus network for the area, particularly June to September. But driving gives you much more freedom to explore the backroads. It's about 2 hours from Sapporo, expressway and local roads. Doable in a day trip, but bettter to stay overnight.
Taisetsu Mountains/Sounkyou - getting to Sounkyou and Asahidake is possible by public transport from Asahikawa, but driving is a popular way to explore.
Kushiro Marshes - to really get out and find the red crested cranes at the various feeding grounds you need a car. You can drive the loop round starting and finishing in Kushiro City in about 4 hours.
Shiretoko Peninsular World Heritage Site - train links only as far as Abashiri or Shari, then hourly buses to Utoro - so driving makes sense. Public road access is possible as far as the Five Lakes on the northern side of the peninsular - May to October. You cannot drive to Kamuiwaka Falls, this is only accessible by shuttle bus in July and August. Deer are everywhere here - drive very carefully. Bear also appear near river bridges at dusk and early morning.
Niseko/Lake Toya/Noboribetsu - a good circular route, doable as a long day trip from Sapporo, but best to stay along the way.
Not Worth the Drive
Sapporo to Hakodate is a long boring drive, only some of its expressway. Take the train.
Asahikawa to Wakkani is long......almost 5 hours, best to take the train or fly and then rent a car locally. Car rental is possible ON Rebun Island.
Driving Times
Sapporo to Hakodate (5 hours), Noboribetsu (2.20), Furano (2.30), Asahikawa (2.40), Obihiro (4.20), Abashiri (7), Kushiro (6).
Toll Costs
Depends on car size, but a rough guide:
Sapporo to Chitose Y850,
Chitose to Abuta-Toya Y2,900
Sapporo to Takikawa (Furano) Y2,250
Sapporo to Asahikawa Y3,400
Signs in English
Compared to mainland Japan there is a LOT of English signage. All the main tourist areas, national parks and cities have clear English signage. If you can read some kanji remember that some local place names are ususual pronunciations because they are actually based on Ainu words and are not Japanese! A few car companies can offer English GP systems. But there are few roads in Hokkaido and general driving is no problem - but be sure to have the exact address (in Japanese) and phone number of small country guest houses, because they may be harder to find and badly signposted.
Winter Driving
November to April most of Hokkaido is under ice and snow, there are snow storms and road closures. Make sure your rental car is a 4 wheel drive. Unless you really want to drive, think seriously whether you need to and consider your winter driving experience. A 2 hour journey in summer can become a 4 hour nightmare in winter with bad conditions. Early morning and after 4 pm are particularly icy. Studded tires were banned a few years back, so road surfaces become polished - intersections, passes and bridges are danger points.
Carry a mobile phone with you and have contact numbers for hotels.
Parking
Hokkaido cities have plenty of paid parking lots and towers, supermarkets also give discounted parking for purchases over Y1,000. There is very little on street parking and police have regular campaigns involving tow away and steep fines. Only some city hotels have parking.