Dada Hari ni Vav - A hidden gem
It was sometime early in the 15th century, when Sultan Ahmed Shah, camping on the banks of the Sabarmati River, as per a popular legend, saw a hare chasing a dog. Impressed by this land, which nurtured such rare qualities that a timid hare could chase a ferocious dog, the sultan, who had been looking for a place to build his new capital, decided to found his capital here and called it Ahmedabad.
Over the years, Ahmedabad grew to become one of the largest and wealthiest cities in the world, and the sultans were patrons of a distinctive architecture that blended Islamic elements with Gujarat's indigenous Hindu and Jain architectural traditions.
Dada Hari ni vav, located in Asarva, is a fine example of this fusion.
It was in the 16th century, during the reign of Mahmud Shah 1, the grandson of Ahmed Shah, also known as Mahmud Begada, that this seven storey step well was built by Bai Harir Sultani, the superintendent of the royal harem.
As per the bilingual inscriptions fixed at the monument, the stepwell, with beautiful carvings all over, cost 3,29,000 Mahmudis (more than Rs1 lakh) at that time.
(“As long as the Sun and the Moon endure, so long shall this well continue steadily to nourish all beings , whether born from sweat or eggs, whether from soil or from the womb. ”)
Built in sandstone, the stepwell is five stories deep, enough to access groundwater throughout the year in the past. The step-well is built along the North-South axis, with entrance from the south, marked by a raised platform, covered with a dome supported on twelve pillars. Three staircases lead to the various levels of the well, including two spiral staircases built parallel to the well shaft.
On the main staircase. there are 95 steps descending 5 levels to the base. Each level is supported on intricately carved columns and beams, and is spacious enough to allow gatherings. The walls are covered with intricate carvings of flowers and graphics from the Islamic architectural style, blended well with the idols of Hindu and Jain gods carved at various levels of the well, representing the unity and harmony between hindu and muslim communities during the past days.
The top part of the well is a vertical space open to the sky. The air and light vents in the roofs at various floors and at the landing level are in the form of large openings.
Steps along the principal well descend to the water level. An irrigation well complements the principal well. In the past, the water from this well was drawn with the help of bullocks and fed into canals built on top of the step-well. The narrow canals carried the water to a tank where it was stored, to be used by the people.
The temperatures at the lower levels of the well remain up to five degrees less than the outside temperatures. When the monument was at its full glory, the women who came to fetch water during the scorching summers found a place here to spend time, worshipping the gods and goddesses and gossiping with fellow women.The underground structure stands witness to these colourful festivals and sacred rituals celebrated within its reaches. The palm impressions all along the walls of this structure stand testimony to those occassions.
Just behind the step-well is the tomb and mosque of Sultani, built around the same time as the Vav. The prayers have been offered five times a day. without a pause for the past 500 years. The courtyard of the mosque has a secret passage that leads one to the bazaars of Kalupur, had the opening at the other end not been sealed.
The stepwell today faces neglect and disregard. In the 19th century, these stepwells was replaced with borewells by the British Raj. Parts of the monument were destroyed in communal clashes.
Over the years, the groundwater level has receded due to overextraction, and the stepwell remains dry throughout the year. The prophecy of the builders has been put down.