Enoshima Daishi Temple

Enoshima Island Tour | A Taste of Japan #7

A Taste of Japan returns with a full Enoshima Island tour! When my sister was visiting us in 2015, we went to Enoshima Island, and explored much of the island. We visited Enoshima Shrine, Enoshima Daishi, Enoshima Sea Candle, and the Iwaya Caves. The shopping area was wonderful, but busy. And the view was incredible. Enoshima is located on the southern part of Fujisawa, Kanagawa Prefecture in Japan. It's next to the busiest beach in Japan, Enoshima Beach. The island is famous for its dried, flattened octopus, as well as the many cats that live on the island.

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Enoshima Island Shrine, Kanagawa Japan, Video of Shrine on Enoshima Island, Vacation trip

Enoshima Island Shrine, Kanagawa Japan, Video of Shrine on Enoshima Island, Vacation trip.
The three shrines (Hetsunomiya, Nakatsunomiya, and Okutsunomiya) in the Enoshima Island are generally grouped together and called Enoshima Shrine.


(1) Hetsu-no-miya shrine

EnoshimaMHThe first structures you will see after entering the torii gates is Hetsunomiya, the main shrine, sacred to Tagitsuhime, and was originally founded in 1206 by Sanetomo Minamoto (1192-1219), the Third Kamakura Shogun. It consists of three structures: Haiden, or the oratory, Heiden, or the hall to dedicate votive offerings to the sanctum and Honden, or the sanctum. All were rebuilt in 1657.

At the left of the shrine is the octagonal Ho-an-den, meaning a hall to install holly objects, and the structure was modeled after Yumedono of Horyuji in Nara, though much smaller in size. It is dedicated to the two famous Benten Statues: The nude Benten and the one equipped with eight arms. The nude, milk-white Benten statue measuring 54 centimeters tall is in half-cross legged posture playing the lute, whereby it is also called Myo-on (sweet tune) Benten and greatly venerated by pop musicians, kabuki players, etc. Being carved realistically to the fullest extent including woman's genitals, the shrine office is sometimes embarrassed by the request made from the influential quarters to let them take a look at it. Why unclothed? Some say because the white pigment will be stained by saline moisture if it is clothed.

The other Benten statue is nearly as tall as the Nude Benten, or 59 centimeters tall to be exact, and has eight arms, each holding something like a sword, a bow, a hoju (a peach shaped Buddhist fitting) etc. An ICA designated by the Prefecture of Kanagawa. Although it is certain that the statue was made during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), who fashioned it remains unknown. Cross-legged, it is arrayed in karaginu, or a half-length kimono which is outermost layer of the 12-layered court ensemble. In days of yore, the statue must have been richly tinted in colors. According to the literature made by Fujisawa city, the statue was carved in the late Kamakura Period, and the nude Benten statue later than that.

During the Edo Period, the statues were usually enshrined deep inside the feretory and worshipers were unable to view them face to face. The Temple exhibited them for the public only every six years, that were the Year of Snake and Boar. (See Eto of Kamakura Terminology.) In those years, Enoshima was overwhelmed by crowds, and its revenues soared.

Since Benten is of Buddhist elements, the statues were almost thrown away shortly after the Meiji Imperial Restoration of 1868 under the anti-Buddhist movement. They were dumped into a corner of the hall of Nakatsu-no-miya. Local children played with them. A closer look at the Nude Benten will reveal her left hand down the elbow, the left leg down the knee and the right ankle are slightly different in tint from other part of the statue. They were missing at the time of retrieval. Unfortunately, the replaced one does not look, say connoisseurs, like the original one. Its right sole, for example, should face straight upward, but it does not.

The statues here look rather like sculptures for appreciation than objects of worship. They are exhibited on a display stand, not enshrined on the altar. Ho-an-den is open from 9:00 a.m. to 16:30. Admission : 200 yen.

(2) Nakatsu-no-miya shrine

As noted earlier, this shrine was erected by Priest En-nin in 853, dedicating to Ichikishimahime. Curious though it may sound that Buddhist priest erected a Shinto shrine, amalgamation of Shinto and Buddhism was already progressing in his days. Present-day shrine was rebuilt in 1689.

(3) Okutsu-no-miya shrine

Enshrined here is Tagirihime. Legend holds that the goddess usually stays in the cave down the cliff during winter. She comes up here on the first Serpent Day of April and goes back to the cave on the first Boar Day of October on lunar calendar. The shrine is a typical irimoya (hipped-gabled roof) style of architecture, though not old. It was rebuilt in 1842.

On the ceiling of the oratory, the well-known 'A Turtle Glaring at Eight Directions', painted by Hogetsu Sakai (1761-1829), appears and stares down at you no matter where you are.