Istrian Malvasia: A guide to the native variety from Istria, Croatia, with Dimitri Brečević
Dimitri Brečević discusses Istrian Malvasia with in this vineyard interview from Clai d.o.o. One of the most important native grapes in Croatia, the Malvasia from Istria is unique in form and flavour, and requires a certain style of maceration according to Dimitri. The full interview is available on
Transcript:
The terroir is very specific to our area here, which is white clay, on white stone. We get this very interesting minerality into Malvasia. It is 100% Malvasia in the vineyard, which is the main grape here in Istria.
And tell us about the Istrian Malvasia, because it's slightly different to...
So, Istrian Malvasia is an interesting grape but in the same way it is a tricky grape. You know? Because, it makes pretty aromatic wines, pretty powerful wine, like style wine you know, pretty high structure, but the only thing is that this kind of grape if you want to make it in a natural way - which is our kind of vinification, we make natural wines - it needs to be macerated. So, it's famous name is now what we call orange wine, so an orange wine is actually a white wine made with skin contact maceration. It's a traditional way to make this fermentation here in Istria, it was always done like that. It is a little bit lost now because people want to go in the modern way because they want to use enzymes and yeast and this and that, you know? To press it correctly and ferment it correctly... We don't use anything of that. That's why we need to make this old school fermentation with maceration. So this kind of vinification is really, really adapted to Malvasia. It makes very rich and very powerful wine.
And so, in terms of the properties of the grape, when you are doing a skin fermentation of Malvasia, how does it work? In the thickness of the skins, the aromatic properties?
It has very, very thick skin and it is very, very high viscosity (I don't know if you can say this word actually?) We can see, if we press the grape, you see that the main part of the juice stays in the meat of the grape (- I don't know - ) that's why the maceration is really important because the work of the enzymes, the natural enzymes which are on the skin of the grape, after the work of the yeast, will completely destroy the structure of the flesh and will deliver some of the juice. So that's why the maceration is very important with Malvasia, because if you just press it as a normal grape - let's say Chardonnay or Sauvignon, or whatever - just press it, you need to press for hours and hours and hours, if you want to get this normal 60-65% of juice, you know? So that's why the maceration is definitely adapted to this variety.
The sound track is a traditional Istrian two-part scale: