BBC Coast: Harris Tweed
Excerpt from BBC's Coast programme on Harris Tweed featuring Alice Starmore talking about natural dyes from plants and lichens.
Tweed Guide - How To Wear Harris Tweeds, Donegal, Cheviot, Saxony...
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Tweed began as a handwoven fabric which was made on looms. The cloth was rough and thick and coarse. And the colors were earthy, because they were inspired by nature.
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So how did tweed get its name? Some people claim, it comes from the river tweed, which is in Scotland. Supposedly the cloth was first woven in the Tweed Valley. Other people claim, tweed is a twist of the Scottish word tweel.
Now, tweed is usually quite heavy and warm. But believe it or not, it used to be the high-performance fabric of its time. The English gentry was quick to adopt tweed as the preferred fabric for golfing, hunting or fishing under country estates.
Today, It is rarely used for sport activities anymore because it is quite insulating and even though wool is quite absorbent when it comes to sweat it is simply to warm for most people.
Cheviot Tweed. Cheviot is a breed of white faced sheep that were first kept in a cheviot hills in Northumberland near the Scottish border. Generally, it is a larger and rougher type of tweed. It is quite coarse to the touch, such as this one.
Shetland Tweed. The opposite of cheviot in the sense that it is much softer, it is finer and usually have a looser weave
Geographically named TWEEDS:
First off all, the Donegal Tweed. The name of Donegal is derived from the Irish county of Donegal and the characteristic is a tweed with knobs as you can see here. Rather than having a plain fabric, you see like orange or red, gray speckle, sometimes you have pink or green or something very outlandish but overall it creates a very soft look.
Saxony tweed. In the middle ages, it was forbidden for the Christian areas of Spain to export sheep.Generally, it is made from a Merino wool today and it is another wonderful sport coat or a jacket fabric.
Certainly, the most well-known tweed today is Harris tweed. It is another geographically named tweed which comes from the Isle of Harris. It was first introduced to the English aristocracy in the 1840s by lady Dunmore, It quickly became popular in English Society.
Gamekeeper tweed is the heavier fabric usually starting at 700g, about 24 oz. It is made for cold weathers, so it is quite insulating and hard wearing. It really got its name from the people who use it outside all day in cold harsh conditions.
Sporting tweeds or Hunting tweeds were developed specifically for hunting and the idea was that one hand, that the colors are chosen so you blend in with the environment. On the other hand, a hunting tweed jacket has a shoulder patch just like this one, so you could easily hold your rifle and it wouldn’t wear out your shoulder fabric so quickly.
Thornproof tweed which is made of two-ply wool yarns which are supposed to be woven tightly and as a consequence if you go through a thorn it may poke through, but is then self-repairing.
Supasax is a Saxony tweed used to be made by Bladen. It had been discontinued for a while. I think it is back now, though I really prefer the old stuff because it has a special color depth and wonderful patterns.
TWEED PATTERNS
Plain twill weave tweed. It has these ridges that are quite wide they can be a little finer, but this is typical for a plain twill weave.
Overcheck twill. It’s still a twill weave but not as pronounced as the one you can see here, but it has this overcheck.
Herringbone. Herringbone is named that way because it’s supposed to resemble fish bones. Basically, a herringbone is a twill weave, so it’s the same twill weave you can see here but the rows are adjusted to go up and down right next to each other giving you this herringbone pattern.
Barleycorn. it’s called that way because upon closer inspection it resembles a kernel of barley.
How do you actually wear a tweed? It's particularly well suited for fall, winter outfits, because otherwise, you simply overheat.
When not to wear tweed? If you are in a traditional white collar environment, tweed is not the fabric to wear. Stay away from formal events, especially evening events.
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London Trading Post Store Tour Part One
Take a tour of some of our seasonal items currently in the shop. Featuring Rick from the London Trading Post in Bobcaygeon.
This video features wool knitwear sweaters, horse riding coats, pirate coats, Harris Tweed coats, lambs wool vests, Coxwell coats, handmade wool jackets, Polish Lemigo boots, Canadian-made fur hats and Australian Kangaroo Barmah hats.
Recorded January 2015.
Harris Tweed Hebrides Stornoway.
Short videos giving a 'walk in' view of places on the Western Isles of Scotland
Strickwaren von den britischen Inseln
Irland und Schottland sind aus gutem Grund berühmt für ihre außergewöhnlichen Strickwaren. Im Film sehen Sie einen Strickmantel von Fisherman out of Ireland aus echter Donegal-Wolle. Er trägt einen authentischen „Fair Isle“-Pullunder aus schottischer Schurwolle. Mehr Britische Strickmode finden Sie bei THE BRITISH SHOP.
Traditional Harris Tweed Manufacturing Facility on Harris
A great little shop where Harris Tweed fabric is still manufactured in the traditional manner.
The Harris Tweed Company Grosebay
Short videos giving a 'walk in' view of places on the Western Isles of Scotland
Taking Harris Tweed off the loom.
Taking a random patchwork Harris Tweed off the loom to get it ready to go for washing and finishing.
The Story of Brora Scottish Cashmere
A short glimpse into the world of Brora Scottish cashmere. From untamed yarns to beautifully woven layers, over twenty years of expertise and skilled British production has made Brora synonymous with this luxurious commodity.
Sweater Guide: What to look for when you buy a Jumper, how to wear it + Pullover Do's & Don'ts
Learn more about your favorite sweater:
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Sweaters are also known as jumpers in Great Britain and they are a casual wardrobe staple that is wonderful during the colder seasons of the year. They can be made of many materials such as cashmere, wool, cotton, alpaca, or blends thereof. Overall, you want something that does not pill, that lasts you for quite a while that is soft on the skin, that keeps you warm, without making you sweat unnecessarily. You want it to fit properly in the shoulders, in terms of shoulder width, you want the sleeve lengths to be exactly the length you want, and it should not be too baggy around your midsection or too tight around your bum.
So how did sweaters come to exist?
If you go back in history and look at the 15th century, you can see that fishermen from the island of Guernsey wore these kinds of garments for the first time. They were made of a tightly spun knit wool because that's what they had available and it had to last and keep the fishermen warm and protected even in the roughest of seas. Eventually, fishermen from outside of Guernsey picked it up and they called them gansey. Once the gansey had been adopted by the Royal British navy in the 19th century, later on, there was also the fair isle sweater, again, named after geographical location and it became really popular in 1921 when the Prince of Wales famously wore it and had a portrait painted of himself.
SWEATER STYLES
First up is the crew neck style which is the original fisherman style. It means, it sits very close to your neck and protects you from the elements and it's round.
Another style that is less popular but I personally like a lot is the shawl collar style. It's called that way because it's round.
A not so well known sweater is the command or wooly pully which is a very tight fitting crew neck sweater with epaulets.It evokes some military resemblance.
SWEATER MATERIALS
One of the most popular materials and one of the most expensive ones is cashmere because it's soft.
A very underrated material for sweaters is alpaca. It comes from a Peruvian mountain animals and is extremely soft, almost as soft as cashmere, at the same time, it is more insulating.
The most traditional sweater material is definitely wool. As I mentioned before, the first fishermen used wool to make their sweaters.
SWEATER FIT
First of all, you want the bottom of the sweater to cover the hem at least by a little bit. If you have high waisted trousers, you can have a shorter hem, but you can also have a longer hem.
The next element to look at is your shoulder seam. Sometimes, sweaters are way too big or way too small but the end of the seam should always sit on your shoulder bone. In terms of sleeve length, you ideally want the sweater to end at the base of your hand.
Just like with the regular suit or jacket, you want your armholes of your sweaters to be rather small and tight.
Do's and Don'ts of men's sweaters
-Do store sweaters neatly folded rather than hanging.
-Do minimize the number of dry cleanings and washings of your sweater.
-Do wash your sweaters according to instruction label and make sure you take a look at it before you buy it.
-Don't automatically reject an itchy sweater.
-In my opinion, don't wear zip sweaters unless you are in a very casual environment and you really like them. Go with toggles or buttons, they always look superior.
-Don't pull or clip loose threads on your sweater because that may lead to it coming undone completely.
-Don't wear a visible t-shirt underneath your sweater because it looks rather cheap.
-Don't wear sweaters with French of double cuffs because they are simply not made for that.
-Don't toss a pilling sweater.
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Building a Brand from Local to Global - Harris Tweed
Mark Hogarth, Creative Director at Harris Tweet Hebrides, describes the importance of authenticity, provenance and vision when building a brand with global ambitions
Harris Tweed, Triumph and Triumph Glasgow tell you the story of one mans journey.
Triumph presented a one-off custom ‘Dapper Bonnie DGR100’ Bonneville T100 with a Harris Tweed seat to Phil Green following his participation in the Distinguished Gentlemen's Ride.
Phil collected his new ride from the Triumph Factory Visitor Experience after the bike’s journey from the motorcycle factory to home of Harris Tweed. The one-of-a-kind bike is based on Triumph’s iconic Bonneville T100 complete with burnt orange custom paintwork and a range of Triumph after-market accessories.
Triumph Glasgow supported the journey of the bike by gathering a group of extra special people who take part and support The Distinguished Gentleman's Ride every year to welcome the bike into Glasgow. This fantastic network of incredible individuals, dressed suited and booted for the arrival of the iconic Dapper Bonnie, told their stories and what it means to them to support those affected by mental health issues and male cancers.
Lisa Birrell told Triumph Glasgow “Emotions and mental health aren’t something that’s readily spoken about and is often avoided completely. I would like to help see that change. If a brother, son, uncle or friend is struggling they should feel comfortable enough to talk about it or even ask for help.”
Triumph is a title sponsor of the Distinguished Gentlemen’s Ride, which sees well-dressed motorcyclists from across the world come together on a single day each year to raise awareness of men’s health issues, including mental health conditions and prostate cancer.
Triumph Glasgow are proud to be a part of this movement and will continue to support Movember wherever possible. If you’d like to get involved with The Distinguished Gentlemans Ride, visit triumphglasgow.co.uk or email the team at info@triumphglasgow.co.uk.
Donald John McKay
Making tweed at Luskentyre, Harris
Dashing Tweeds Weaving
The Mills of Britain bring you Dashing Tweeds
Meet Mark Hogarth - A Wild Britain Local Hero (Part 1)
An insight into the creative mind behind Harris Tweed Hebrides - Mark Hogarth.
From Autumn till Winter, we'll be celebrating Wild Britain with you. Join in our pride of the British Isles, walk our Glorious Shores, savour the food from this magnificent land, and admire our wildlife wonders.
Weaving (1940-1949)
British Instructional Films Ltd presents a Classroom Film.
Card Loom - women demonstrate simple weaving techniques on a card loom. A comb is used to press the threads into place. The finished sample is shown to the camera. Scarf Loom - a larger loom is demonstrated. A young man sits at a desk with the loom in front of him and shows hand weaving technique. Weaving shown in C/U. A finger points to the different stripes in the design. Hand Loom - a larger loom is shown. a shuttle is threaded in C/U. We then see how the shuttle is moved from side to side using a stick. C/U of the woman's foot as she operates the loom. C/U of the shuttle and of the woven fabric. Top shot of the loom being used. Power Looms - large industrial loom is demonstrated. Automatic shuttle. Machinery operating. Women tend to machines. C/U of machine details. Fabric that has been woven is pulled off the loom and inspected by a woman worker and the foreman.
Note: 2 x negs and 2 x prints exist, check for best quality.
FILM ID:1823.06
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British Pathé also represents the Reuters historical collection, which includes more than 136,000 items from the news agencies Gaumont Graphic (1910-1932), Empire News Bulletin (1926-1930), British Paramount (1931-1957), and Gaumont British (1934-1959), as well as Visnews content from 1957 to the end of 1984. All footage can be viewed on the British Pathé website.
Episode 211: Outer Hebrides
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Esquire: The Knit Edit | my-wardrobe.com
Esquire's senior fashion editor Gareth Scourfield takes the fear out of fairisle with his edit of new season knitwear.
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Wool Industry : Border Weave - 1941 British Council Film Collection - CharlieDeanArchives
One of the establishing shots is set in Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire. Mr Primrose, who served at secretary to the British Council Film Committee, retired to this village after leaving the British Council Film Department in 1946.
Border Weave was made in co-operation with the Scottish Woollen Export Council.
Records suggest that the working title for this film may have been 'Close Knit'.
This film has been made available by the British Council Film Collection for non-commercial research and educational purposes . . The British Council Film Collection consists of 120 short documentaries made by the British Council during the 1940s designed to show the world how Britain lived, worked and played.
View, download and play with the Collection at britishcouncil.org/film .
CharlieDeanArchives - Archive footage from the 20th century making history come alive!