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Kamesei Ryokan hotel review | Hotels in Chikuma | Japanese Hotels

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Japan Trip: More than a Typical Onsen Town at the Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, Nagano 63

Japan Trip: More than a Typical Onsen Town at the Togura Kamiyamada Onsen, Nagano 63

Togura Kamiyamada Onsen (戸倉上山田温泉), located in Nagano Prefecture between Karuizawa and Nagano City, is a hot spring (onsen) town with a unique twist. The onsen town is situated on a valley by the banks of the Chikuma River at the foot of a small but noteworthy mountain fortress. The sulfuric waters is good　Being located near the Zenkoji Temple in Nagano, the town is often used as a stopover by the temple visitors. However, the uniqueness of this onsen town is Tyler Lynch, a tall American who runs one of the local ryokan (onsen inn). He has helped make this town more accessible to foreign tourist, giving Togura Kamiyamada Onsen a foreign advantage over other towns. For example, the town distributes good English maps with restaurant listings and menus, making Togura Kamiyamada Onsen very accessible to foreign tourists.

Tyler’s wife, Mari’s family owns the family ryokan Kamesei Ryokan. Tyler moved here in 2005 to run the family business with his wife. The Kamesei Ryokan is a typical ryokan with traditional tatami rooms, a nice inner garden with pond, and pleasant hot spring baths. However, guests at the ryokan have the unique opportunity to learn about Japanese culture, ryokan customs and the onsen town from Tyler and his insider knowledge.

Another advantage are the activities Tyler can arrange for his guests. Difficult for non-Japanese speaking visitors, Tyler can arrange activities such as traditional workshops at the local tea, miso and textile shops or early-morning Zen meditation at a local temple.

Togura Kamiyamada Onsen has seven public baths and a few free footbaths. Most of the public baths operate late into the night, charging from 250 to 650 yen per visit. Guests spending the night here stroll down the streets in their yukata and geta clogs, a typical sight in an onsen town. The yukata and geta clogs are usually providing the ryokan where the guests are staying.

Visitors will find a small population of geisha who continue to entertain visitors at Togura Kamiyamada Onsen. Visitors wishing to view a geisha performance can make arrangements through their ryokan. The geisha entertains though dance and music performances, with drinking games and small talk in Japanese. They are usually hired in pairs for 2-hour periods for 18,000 yen per geisha. However, foreign tourists without Japanese language skills may opt to hire them in half-hour segments for their services.




On the mountain west of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen is Aratojo Castle. Aratojo Castle is one of the many hundreds of small fortresses built on mountain tops across Japan during the age of warring states (1467-1568). During this time period, castles were built purely for defense. Like all other fortresses of its kind, Aratojo was once destroyed in the past. However, it is now the only one in Japan that has been fully reconstructed in the recent years. The unique stronghold consists of wooden fortifications, stone walls and some simple buildings. Being on a mountain top, visitors can view over the Chikuma River and the town.

Aratojo Castle
Hours: 9:00 to 17:00 (last entry at 16:30)
Closed: December 29th to January 3rd
Admission: 300 yen

Visitors can view the huge kanji characters spelling out the name of Togura Kamiyamada Onsen on the side of the mountain a few hundred meters down from the castle. The sign is similar to that of the Hollywood Sign in California, USA. From the town, visitors can see the sign clearly. And the sign is light up at night, letting all known the town they are in.

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