1ST TRAD CLIMBING EXPERIENCE IN THE GRAMPIANS, AUSTRALIA
We finally reached the Grampians!
This national park is know to offer some of the most beautiful sport and trad climbing routes in the world.
During the first week, we discovered several amazing sport climbing crags such as Gallery and its big overhang, Tower, the Hollow Mountain,...etc.
Then, our friends Pauline and Bryan came from Melbourne to spend a weekend with us. They taught us how to trad climb at the the crag Wall of Fools!
Even if we were pretty scared at the beginning, we can say we were not too bad it...
Watch the video to see more! ;)
Stay tuned for the rest of the adventure, please make sure to follow us!
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Thanks to our partners for their support!
Décathlon Nice TNL
Simond Chamonix
Millet
Sea To Summit
LifeStraw
Fingerschinder
BIG 4 - Groove Train (33/5.14b) - Grampians, Australia
Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein visit the Grampian Mountains of Australia to sample the best bouldering and sport climbs in the world. As part of the Grampians BIG 4, Jorg climbs the classic sport test piece Groove Train (33/5.14b) and ticks one more #lifelist box.
For more clips and information see marmot.de/australia.
Produced by Louder Than Eleven (lt11.com)
Original Score by Fizzix Productions (fizzixproductions.com)
Grampians Rock Climbing
Mt Arapiles in renown as one of Australia's best rock climbing locations. For more information:
VLOG / Arapiles / Second 26 (5.12c) at Grampians / Kangaroo Point
Packing heaps into this little vlog. Footage from the past month of climbing at Arapiles, Grampians and Kangaroo Point in Queensland. Also a bit of an update on the next month or so.
Routes include;
Grampians
De La Soul - 5.12c (26)
Happiness in Magazines - 5.12b (25)
Body Count - 5.12a (25)
Arapiles
Ergonomics - 5.12c (26)
Arab - 5.7+ (15)
Bulger - 5.7+ (15)
Kangaroo Point
Wages of Fear - 5.12a (24)
Music by Epidemic Sound (epidemicsound.com)
Eric Fazio-Rhicard (EFR) on Taipan Wall's Mr Joshua, 25
After initially heading up Mr J on-sight putting in the gear, getting terrified (only one cam placement KL?) and whipping off more than once, Eric red-pointed the big rig in good style. The key... milking the rests and keeping his composure despite the runouts and some less than optimal bolt positioning.
Rock & Soul - Arapiles - DOCUMENTARY
This is the short film about Australian rock climbing in Arapiles, a rock formation that rises about 140 metres (460 ft) above the Wimmera plains in western Victoria, Australia
Malcolm climbs Deeply Techo, 24 Mt Arapiles, Australia
Tiny slippery feet and rounded handholds ensure the crux of this route is particularly difficult on a warm day. Malcolm though has seemingly little trouble - except finding the chains after he tops out.
Eureka Wall w/ Hazel and Alex
In March 2015, Hazel Findlay and Alex Honnold visited Australia to climb at Mount Arapiles and The Grampians. We caught up with them, just a few days before their departure, at the awesome Eureka Wall in the Southern Grampians to hear about their trip and check out some new and old classics. Unfortunately, Hazel's shoulder injury prevented her from leading anything on the day but we look forward to her post-surgery return sometime in the future!
Climbs featured: Archimedes Principle, Pavlov's Dog, Pythagoras' Theorem.
Music track 'Psychotica' by Bootleg Rascal used with kind permission of the band. Please feel free to check out more of their work at bootlegrascal.com or on Spotify, Soundcloud, iTunes and Triple J Unearthed.
Produced and edited by Brett Williams.
Shot by Brett Williams and Eugene Perepletchikov.
sidetrip.com.au
There's a few names not mentioned in the credits but whom I'd like to thank: Chelsea Brunckhorst (chelseabrunckhorst.com/) who was originally going to conduct the interview and I'm sure would have done a much better job; Vertical Life Mag (verticallifemag.com.au/) for the feedback and promoting my work; Kent Paterson - the first ascentionist of Pavlov's Dog and numerous other Gramps classics - for the beta and putting up an amazing looking line; Adam Demmert, also for the beta and the photos; Andy Reid for looking after my gear for a few days and my wonderful wife Sarah for putting up with my back-and-forth trips to The Mount/Gramps and the always honest feedback in post. And of course big thanks to Alex and Hazel themselves for being good sports and Eug for the great camera work.
Chris Sharma Down Under
Chris Sharma recently made his first trip to Australia and it was all that he dreamed it would be; breathtaking terrain, high quality rock, friendly people and wildlife unique to the continent. Learn more about Chris at
Eric Fazio-Rhicard (EFR) on Kachoong, 21 at Mt Arapiles
It's not often Tucsonian EFR gets to climb things this steep and this trad at home on Mt Lemmon but many decades of climbing much of which was trad in the early days at The Gunks and Devils Tower have set him up to deal with Kachoong's exposure.
Mount Arapiles Pictorial.
Mount Arapiles located in Victoria is a popular place for climbers, amateur and professionals as there are various climbing options for all. Its a beautiful location and even just bush walking around the area is a great experience. Kangaroos can also be seen while walking around.
Photography 2013 by John Boom.
My original backing songs written and performed by me Johnny B.
Australian Pictorials - australianpictorials.com
Please subscribe if you like the work I do and check out my Aussie Photo site: aussiephoto.com
Climbing - Grampians - Pains Crims (Linkup) ( 23)
A Great Climb at The Ravine in the Grampians, Victoria Australia probably more like 21/22 but fun regardless of the grade. The long draw and screw gate midway (Crux) was placed for someone working the Direct route (Portland Criminals) a boulder problem that leads into the top half of the this climb and goes at 24/25. It is a nice climb also along with majority of the routes on this wall. This is a great low - mid grade (18-26) sport climbing crag.
I didnt add music as the background noise is quite relaxing (mostly) ;-)
Online Guide here
Rock Climbing @ Grampians
2015 Christmas
Lifelist - Climbing in Australia with Katha Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven and Katha Saurwein visit the Grampians Mountains and Tasmania, Australia to sample some of the best bouldering, sport climbing, trad climbing and adventures available down under. Join Jorg and Katha as they successfully tick the Australia #lifelist box.
Produced by Louder Than Eleven (lt11.com)
Original Score by Fizzix Productions (fizzixproductions.com)
Mt Arapiles - Bushwalking Victoria
With the Grampians located an hour south-east towards Melbourne it would be easy to assume that little foot traffic finds it's way past to Mt Arapiles. Not so in the rock-climbing community, this destination is as popular with rope crawlers as you would be led to believe. A beautiful mural defined by deep shades of orange, yellow, and white sandstone whose bauble surface has been drawing, an ever increasing number of climbers since the 70's.
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Cut Lunch Walls - Grampians
New routes at a small sport crag at Mt Stapylton. Features Malcolm Matheson, Jacqui Middleton and Neil Monteith.
grampians in australia... landscapes and kangaroos
The grampians are the perfect destination for a week end in victoria...
the landscapes are incredible and i never saw a such huge amount of kangaroos in one place!!!
Grampians/Arapiles rock climbing
grampians june super cool V9
Dan De Silva climbing super cool V9 in the Grampians/ Vic/ Australia