Old Orhei in Orhei, Moldova
Old Orhei is a Moldovan historical and archaeological complex located in Trebujeni, which is approximately 60 kilometres north-east of Chişinău on the Răut River in the Republic of Moldova.
The ancient city of Orheiul Vechi is a natural and historical complex, located in a narrow bend of the Raut River. The natural landscape of limestone rock, eroded by the river, is combined with archaeological vestiges of the ancient Trypillian civilization. As a result of archaeological excavations, cultural layers were discovered from different epochs, such as the Paleolithic, Eneolithic, and Iron Age.
Old Orhei contains traces of different civilizations, including the remnants of earthen and wooden fortresses of Geto-Dacian fortress, the Golden Horde fort Shehr al-Jedid, a Moldavian fort dating from the 14th-16th centuries, an Orthodox monastery, and the Moldavian town of Orhei from the 14th-16th centuries.
The Orthodox monastery is still inhabited by a handful of Orthodox monks, who maintain the church at the top of the hill. The caves are still functional as chapels. The caves contain an array of historical artifacts and Old Church Slavonic inscriptions dating from the 1690s, which testify that the Hajduk took shelter in the caves, hiding from the Ottoman Empire.
Occupying a remote, rocky ridge over the Răut River, the complex is known for its Cave Monastery, but also includes ruins ranging from the earliest days of the Dacian tribes more than 2000 years ago through the Mongol and Tatar invasions of the early Middle Ages and the time of Ştefan cel Mare.
The complex is in the village of Butuceni, where a small bridge over the Răut takes you to the trailhead for a 15-minute hike up to the Cave Monastery. Further along the ridge you see the twin spires of an Orthodox church dedicated to the Ascension of St Mary, built in 1905 and recently restored. The church was shut down by the Soviets in 1944 and remained abandoned throughout the communist regime. From here a steep shortcut leads down to Vila Etníca in the village proper.
There are two museums in Butuceni. One is near the bridge inside the Orheiul Vechi Exhibition Centre. It contains objects recovered during archaeological digs, and also sells a handy English-language map and guide of the complex. The other museum is a small ethnographic museum at house no 15 in Butuceni village proper.
Ancillary attractions around here include remnants of a 15th-century defence wall surrounding the monastery complex and recently opened caves across the valley that you can hike to. All exploration is done on foot and it takes about half a day to see everything. Dress appropriately: long skirts or pants for women, long shorts or trousers for men, and no tank tops.
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