Ortigia in Syracuse, Italy
Ortigia in Syracuse, Italy
Ortigia is a small island which is the historical centre of the city of Syracuse, Sicily. The island, also known as Città Vecchia (Old City), contains many historical landmarks. The name originates from the Ancient Greek ortyx ,which means Quail.
The Homeric Hymn to Delian Apollo has it that the goddess Leto stopped at Ortygia to give birth to Artemis, the firstborn of her twins. Artemis then helped Leto across the sea to the island of Delos, where Leto gave birth to Apollo. Other ancient sources state that the twins were born in the same place – which was either Delos or Ortygia – but Ortygia, according to Stravo was an old name of Delos. Further, there were perhaps a half-dozen other places called Ortygia, so that the identification is uncertain.
It was also said that Asteria, the sister of Leto, metamorphosed into a quail (Ortux), threw herself into the sea, and was metamorphosed into the island of Ortygia. Another myth suggested that it was Delos, rather than Ortygia.
Ortygia was the mythological home of Arethusa, a chaste nymph fleeing a river god, who was transformed by Artemis into a spring, traversed underground and appeared here, thus providing water for the city. Arethusa and her pursuer, the river god Alpheus, came from Arcadia in Greece; coincidentally the colony of Syracuse was founded by Greeks from Corinth.
Ortygia, being an island just off the coast, was easily transformed into a natural fortress with harbors and was big enough that it could hold a significant population in ancient times. Therefore, the history of Ortygia is synonymous with the early history of Syracuse.
Ortygia is located at the eastern end of Syracuse and is separated from it by a narrow channel. Two bridges connect the island to mainland Sicily. The island is an extremely popular place for tourism, shopping, entertainment and also a residential area.
The island of Ortigia is the historical heart of Siracusa. There are fewer archaeological sites exposed to view here (the island has been heavily built-up ever since the time of the Greeks), but this is the part of Siracusa you're likely to be wandering around after you've 'done' the mainland points of interest. The tight-knit lanes are pleasant for strolling, and much of the island's charm lies in wandering down narrow medieval lanes, past romantically-crumbling - or lovingly-restored - Baroque palaces and churches. A walk around the perimeter of the island is a good way to begin to get your bearings. With a map and a guidebook you can locate individual buildings of note, such as the bizarre Palazzo Impellizzeri, lined with faces, but it's just as much fun exploring for yourself and discovering your own favourite places: abandoned palazzi where weeds and bushes swarm over the dilapidated balconies, corners where you catch glimpses of sky through once-grand windows, carefully-tended cactus plants, updated and inviting historic buildings, seafront churches, picturesque alleys and so on. Ortigia has many gems to discover - one of our favourites was the small Chiesa of San Martino, a simple and ancient church with a lovely interior, decorated with a mosaic in the apse.
Ortigia is joined to the mainland by three bridges. The central bridge, Ponte Umbertino, continues the line of the wide Corso Umberto, one of mainland Siracusa's major thoroughfares. Straight ahead as you reach the island, you'll come to the majestic ruins of the Greek Temple of Apollo. Veering right up Corso Matteotti you'll pass a range of clothes and shoe shops, before arriving in Piazza Archimede, at the centre of Ortigia. Despite the stream of cars cruising around its central fountain, the piazza is nevertheless a fairly attractive focal point, and a good place to start your explorations of the island. The fountain depicts the myth of the nymph Aretusa, about which you will hear more.
To head straight to Ortigia's most attractive piazza, turn right and head for Via Cavour (which continues as Via Landolina), a narrow thoroughfare lined with restaurants and souvenir shops. At its end lies Piazza Duomo, an elliptical open space lined with harmonious and impressive buildings - and also a good place to sit and enjoy refreshments at an outdoors cafe table (check prices carefully and inspect snacks before you buy). Alternatively, taking Via Roma from Piazza Archimede will take you up the backbone of the island, and past the small tourist information office.
For a pleasant stroll during the traditional evening passeggiata, head towards the thirteenth-century Castello Maniace, the fortress at the island's tip. The route from here back to the Duomo, along the seafront to the Fonte Aretusa, then cutting inland, is adorned with several bars and restaurants and is a nice place for a summer evening promenade.
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