[Pamir] World War II Monument | памятник Победы | 승전기념탑 @ Murghab, Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan
Botanical Garden in Khorog - Tajikistan 4K Travel Channel
The Botanical Garden in Khorog, also referred to as Pamir Botanical Gardens lies on a ridge above the town. It enjoys an excellent reputation among professional audiences. The Khorog Botanical Garden is the second highest botanical garden in the world.
From here you have a beautiful view of the town. In 2012, violence between government forces and opposition erupted in the town. The trigger was the murder of a secret service general. Snipers opened the rifle fire on the town from the surrounding slopes. The background of the disturbances was probably the attempts to gain control of illegal border trade. The riots stopped with the visit of the president Emomali Rahmon.
On occasion of this visit, one set up a magnificent villa with its own staff house at the Botanical Garden. The large building with a golden dome in the valley served as a restaurant, exclusively for the president. All these buildings have been used only once and are empty since then. It is said that there are hundreds of such buildings in the country, which we are unable to verify.
The garden may house a large variety of plants, with individual pavilions in between. Otherwise, it conveys a little unkempt impression. An elderly woman who even spoke some English tells us that she comes here to collect chestnuts.
At the entrance, we enjoy again the view of the city. On the opposite side of the valley, we notice a large yellow-red complex. It is Aga Khan University and the Aga Khan University Hospital. The university is part of the University of Central Asia, UCA. The University of Central Asia was founded in 2000 by the Presidents of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Kazakhstan, together with His Highness Aga Khan, as a private, non-profit university. The three campuses are located along the historic Silk Road, in Naryn Kyrgyzstan, Khorog Tajikistan, and Tekeli Kazakhstan.
Many Aga Khan institutions are active in Khorog. The Aga Khan Bank is the only bank that still conducts normal business operations. An elderly gentleman tells us that for nearly three months, practically all the other banks have stopped doing business and don't dispense money. When asked how normal business life works then he answers: If you do not have money, you do not need a bank. He laughs at these words.
We drive to a second viewpoint. On the way, a wedding convoy approaches us.
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Der Botanische Garten in Khorog liegt erhöht über der Stadt an einem Bergrücken. Unter Fachpublikum genießt der Botanische Garten einen hervorragenden Ruf. Es ist der zweithöchste botanische Garten der Welt.
Von hier aus hat man eine wunderschönen Ausblick auf die Stadt. 2012 kam es in der Stadt zu Gefechten zwischen Regierungstruppen und Oppositionellen. Auslöser war die Ermordung eines Geheimdienstgenerals. Scharfschützen belegten die Stadt von den umliegenden Hängen mit Gewehrfeuer. Hintergrund der Unruhen waren vermutlich die Versuche die Kontrolle über illegale Grenzgeschäfte zu erlangen. Ruhe kehrte erst mit dem Besuch des Präsidenten Emomalij Rahmon ein.
Zu diesem Zweck wurde am Botanischen Garten eine herrliche Villa mit eigenem Personalhaus errichtet, sowie im Tal ein großes Gebäude mit goldener Kuppel, das als Restaurant diente. Alle diese Gebäude wurden nur einmal benutzt und stehen seither leer. Angeblich gibt es im Land hunderte solcher Gebäude, was von uns aber nicht überprüft werden kann.
Der Garten mag eine große Vielfalt an Pflanzen beherbergen, dazwischen sind einzelne Pavillons errichtet worden. Ansonsten macht er aber doch einen etwas ungepflegten Eindruck. Eine ältere Frau, die sogar etwas Englisch sprach erzählt uns, dass sie hierher kommt um Kastanien zu sammeln.
Am Eingang genießen wir nochmals den Ausblick auf die Stadt. Auf der gegenüber liegenden Talseite fällt uns ein großer gelb-roter Komplex auf. Es ist die Aga Khan Universität und das Aga Khan Universitätskrankenhaus. Die Universität ist Teil der Universität von Zentralasien. Die Universität von Zentralasien, UCA wurde im Jahre 2000 von den Präsidenten Kirgisistans, Tadschikistans und Kasachstans zusammen mit seiner Hoheit Aga Khan als private, nicht gewinnbringende Universität gegründet. Alle Standorte liegen entlang der historischen Seidenstraße, in Naryn Kirgisitan, Khorog Tadschikistan und Tekeli Kasachstan.
Eine Reihe von Aga Khan Institutionen sind in Khorog aktiv. So ist die Aga Khan Bank die einzige Bank, die noch normalen Geschäftsbetrieb hat. Ein ältere Herr erzählt uns, dass seit drei Monaten praktisch alle übrigen Banken den Geschäftsbetrieb eingestellt hätten und kein Geld mehr auszahlen. Auf die Frage, wie dann das normale Geschäftsleben funktioniert antwortet er: „Wer kein Geld hat, braucht auch keine Bank“. Bei diesen Worten lacht er.
Wir fahren zu einem zweiten Aussichtspunkt auf die Stadt. Hier kommt uns ein fröhlicher Hochzeitskonvoi entgegen.
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a Soviet war memorial in Xhorog, Tajikistan
As in the UK, there seems to be some sort of memorial to the Second World War in every village, town, city, everywhere. Taken on Tuesday 16/August/2016.
Khorog, Tajikistan Naim bobbing for apples
Tour of New Hotel in Khorog Gorno Badakhshan Pamirs Tajikistan Jan 2016
Khorog Museum Map of Badakhshan William
The First Ever Car in Khorog Gorno Badakhshan Pamirs Tajikistan Jan 2016
The Pamir Highway; driving to Murghab
The Pamir Highway; after the storm, the accidents
And those aren't the best drivers in the world, so, the accidents you see are even stupid!.
Geology of Languages in Khorog, Tajikistan William
Tajikistan Pamir Highway: Day 9 Wakhan Corridor from Langar to Ishkashim
#Pamir Highway: Day 9 #Wakhan Corridor from #Langar to #Ishkashim
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After our hike to the Engles Peak Meadows (Day 8), we left Langar to drive to Ishkashim. We stopped on the way at the Vrang Stupa, Yamg Wakhani Museum, Yamchun Fortress, Bibi Fatima Hot Springs, and Khakha Fortress. The #Yamchun Fortress was by far the most impressive ruins, but all the other stops were incredible moments, perfect to better understand the life along the Wakhan Corridor.
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Table Tennis in Khorog Gorno Badakhshan Pamirs Tajikistan Jan 2016
Vrang / Yamg - Tajikistan 4K Travel Channel
We spent a pleasant night at Aidar's Homestay in Yamg (Vrang). The homestay has nice twin rooms and the family Aidar is very nice. The sanitary facilities are always problematic. For about 20 people there are one toilet and one shower. In the morning we enjoy the sunrise and watch the life awaken. A young man drives a herd of goats up the stony slope behind our accommodation. Two others remain in the valley and have fun together while the goats are grazing.
Before we go again, the driver welds something on the front wheel of our car. Fortunately, our drivers always know how to help themselves. The next garage would be far away.
In the valley, we drive back a part of the way we came yesterday. Then it goes steeply uphill to the Yamchun Fortress. But first, we leave the fortress lying on the right and continue the road to its end.
Here is the Bibi Fatima Hot Springs. Hot water rises from a crevice and is collected in pools, of course, separated for men and women. We forego a bath and try to communicate a little with the locals.
On the way back we stop at the fort and then visit the museum in Yamg (we show both in a separate video).
Arriving at our Home Stay, we get another lunch before we continue the journey to Langar. However, something has to be welded to the car again beforehand. The first attempt was probably not quite successful. An old minibus serves as a tool shed and tool store. Next door, the roof of the goat's stable is being repaired.
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In Aidar's Homestay in Yamg (Vrang) haben wir eine angenehme Nacht verbracht. In unserem Quartier gibt es schöne Zweibettzimmer und die Familie Aidar ist sehr nett. Problematisch sind immer wieder die sanitären Einrichtungen. Für ca. 20 Personen gibt es eine Toilette und eine Dusche.
Morgens genießen wir den Sonnenaufgang und beobachten das erwachende Leben. Ein junger Mann treibt eine Ziegenherde den steinigen Abhang hinter unserem Quartier hoch. Zwei andere bleiben im Tal und haben Spaß zusammen, während die Ziegen grasen.
Bevor wir wieder los fahren, wird am Vorderrad unseres Autos noch etwas geschweißt. Glücklicherweise wissen sich unsere Fahrer immer selbst zu helfen. Die nächste Werkstatt wäre weit.
Wir fahren im Tal ein Stück den Weg zurück, den wir gestern gekommen sind. Dann geht es steil den Berg hinauf zur Festung Yamchun, das wir aber erst einmal rechts liegen lassen.Wir fahren die Straße bis zum Ende weiter.
Hier befinden sich die Bibi Fatima Hot Springs. Heißes Wasser entspringt in einer Felsspalte und wird in Becken gesammelt, natürlich für Männer und Frauen getrennt. Wir verzichten auf ein Bad und unterhalten uns (oder so ähnlich) ein wenig mit den Einheimischen.
Auf dem Weg zurück halten wir bei der Festung Yamchun und besuchen anschließend in Yamg das Museum (beides zeigen wir in einem eigenen Video).
In unserem Home Stay angekommen, bekommen wir nochmal ein Mittagessen, bevor wir die Fahrt nach Langar fortsetzen. Allerdings muss vorher wieder etwas am Auto geschweißt werden. Der erste Versuch war vermutlich nicht ganz erfolgreich. Ein ausgedienter Kleinbus dient als Geräteschuppen und Werkzeuglager. Nebenan wird das Dach des Ziegenstalls repariert.
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Pamir Highway Day 4: Wakhan Valley Murgab to Langar
Wakhan Valley drive from Murgab to Langar on the famed M42
A 9 part series documenting our journey on the Pamir Highway (M41) starting in Osh, Kyrgyzstan to Khorog, Tajikistan and back. Visit for the full write up on our journey!
Citadel Hulbuk - Tajikistan 4K Travel Channel
The citadel of Hulbuk lies 30 km southwest of Kulob. Already in the Bronze Age, people settled in the area in sight of the salt mountain Chodscha Mumin, which rises 1334 m above the valley. A first palace, which burned down at 950 AD was built to around 800 AD. In 970, one built a second palace on the ruins of the first. The palace complexes were in the southern area. An integral part was a mosque. This area lies approximately 5 m higher than the northern one.
The huge entrance gate is 13m high and 8.5m wide. It is said to resemble the Rabati Malik portal. Rabati Malik a caravanserai from the 11th century lies between Bukhara and Samarkand in Uzbekistan. We will visit it later.
The living quarters including a harem were in the northern area. The houses and the palace had underfloor heating and water pipes. A swimming pool was also available. Some fireplaces were surrounded by seats. These point to the practices of Zoroastrianism ( the religion of Zarathustra), which was still prevalent here before Islam.
The wall of the Hulbuk Citadel has been completely rebuilt since 2005. It is not an exact reconstruction but serves to illustrate the original size. Only the lower 1.5 m consist of original masonry.
During our visit, Safar, an archeologist, explains the architectural structure of the building. He was part of the excavation team that found five bodies, one man and four women from the Bronze Age, in 2003. He demonstrates where the ruler sat and where the remaining audience was allowed to take a seat.
The Banijuriden ruled here in the 9th and 10th centuries. After a revolt, the Samanids burnt down the palace. Later the Ghaznawiden took the power over the Samaniden. Hulbuk was one of the largest cities in Central Asia at that time. Then came the Seljuks, which destroyed the city and the citadel.
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Die Zitadelle von Hulbuk liegt 30 kmsüdwestlich von Kulob. In Sichtweite des Salzberges Chodscha Mumin, der mit 1334 m Höhe das Tal überragt, wurde bereits in der Bronzezeit gesiedelt.
Um ca. 800 n. Chr. wurde ein erster Palast errichtet, der um 950 abbrannte. 970 wurde ein zweiter Palast auf den Trümmern des Ersten erbaut. Die Palastanlagen wurden im südlichen Bereich angesiedelt. Integraler Teil war eine Moschee. Dieser Bereich liegt ungefähr 5m höher als der Nördliche.
Das gewaltige Eingangstor ist 13m hoch und 8,5 m breit. Es soll dem Portal des Rabati Malik ähneln. Dies ist eine Karawanserei aus dem 11. Jahrhundert zwischen Buchara und Sarmarkand in Usbekistan, die wir später noch besuchen werden.
Der Nördliche Bereich bestand aus Wohnbereichen inklusive eines Harems. Die Häuser und der Palast waren mit Fußbodenheizung und Wasserleitungen ausgestattet. Auch ein Swimmingpool war vorhanden. Manche Feuerstellen waren kreisförmig mit Sitzen umgeben. Diese deuten auf Praktiken des Zoroastrismus (Religion von Zarathustra) hin, die hier noch vor dem Islam verbreitet war.
Die Mauer der Zitadelle von Hulbuk wurde seit 2005 vollständig neu errichtet. Sie ist keine exakte Rekonstruktion und soll vor allem die originale Größe zeigen. Nur etwa die unteren 1,5 m bestehen aus Original Mauerwerk.
Bei unserer Führung durch die Zitadelle erläutert Safar, ein Archäologe, die architektonische Struktur des Bauwerks. Er erzählt uns, dass er 2003 beteiligt war, als 5 Leichen, ein Mann und 4 Frauen aus der Bronzezeit gefunden und ausgegraben wurden. Anschaulich zeigt er uns, wo der Herrscher saß und wo das restliche Publikum Platz nehmen durfte.
Im 9. und 10. Jahrhundert herrschten hier die Banijuriden. Nach einem Aufstand brannten die Samaniden den Palast nieder. Nach den Samaniden übernahmen die Ghaznawiden die Macht. Zu dieser Zeit war Hulbuk eine der größten Städte Zentralasiens. Danach kamen die Seldschuken, die die Stadt und die Zitadelle zerstörten.
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Timur - Temür-i Lang - Tamerlane
From the remains of an overindulging and quarrelling territory formerly known as the Ilkhanid Dominion (the Mongol House of Hulagu), came an explosive figure who would ultimately conquer and control most of the Muslim World from Damascus in Syria to Delhi in northwest India.
Timur, whose name in Turkish meant “Iron”, and which through Persian, Timur-i Lang (Timur the Lame), came into English as “Tamerlane”, was born on the 8th of April 1336 in Kish, the modern Shahkr-i Sabz, just to the south of Samarqand. Not exactly a Mongol, but from the Barlas tribe of Turkified Mongols (Tartars) apart of the Chaghatai confederacy who dominated the region known to the Romans as “Transoxania” (Land Beyond the Oxus), to the Arabs as “Mā warāʼ an-Nahr” (Land Beyond the River), and what is now today Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, southern Kyrgyzstan, and southwest Kazakhstan.
Considered by many the greatest Asiatic conqueror known in history our most valuable description of this Central Asian warlord, comes from the Syrian writer Ahmad ibn Arabshah, who in his book titled “The Wonders of Destiny of the Ravages of Timur” wrote:
“Timur was tall and lofty of stature as though he belonged to the remnants of the Amalekites, big in brow and head, mighty in strength and courage, wonderful in nature, white in colour, mixed with red, but not dark, stout of limb with broad shoulders, thick fingers, long legs, perfect build, long beard, dry hands, lame on the side with eyes like candles, without brilliance, powerful in voice, he did not fear death; and though he was near his [seventieth] year yet he was firm in mind, strong and robust in body, brave and fearless, like a hard rock.”
Timur acquired his nickname “the Lame” from an injury he received in his youth which resulted in one leg being rigid and shorter than the other causing him to walk with a limp for the remainder of his life.
A keen military strategist and a natural in power politics, Timur quickly captured the attention of his superiors as well as gaining the attention of his adversaries. In his book, “A Literary History of Persia”, the British Orientalist Edward G. Browne mentions:
“The character of Timur has been differently appraised by those who are dazzled by his military achievements on the one hand and those who are disgusted by his cruelty and utter disregard of human life on the other.”
In his early 20s Timur already had a personal following of 300 horsemen. Furthermore in 1361, after taking advantage of a civil war within the Chaghatai confederacy between his uncle Hajji Beg and the newly appointed Khan Tughlaq Timur, he was granted recognition from the Khan as the leader of the Barlas tribe.
Over the next seven years Timur periodically allied with the other leading Chaghatai tribal leader, Amir Husayn. It's unlikely either of them considered the alliance to be something permanent. In 1365, in the Battle of Tashkent, Timur suffered his first major reversal. After having a early success, his ally Amir Husayn fled the battlefield when the fighting was at its most precarious. Growing resentment and rivalry was already evident between the two men, but was exacerbated during the Battle of Tashkent.
In the year following the Battle of Tashkent, Husayn and Timur established themselves as the new rulers of Samarkand. After their brutal overthrow of its leadership known as the Sarbadars, who were a mixture of religious Dervishes and secular rulers, Husayn assumed the position as the senior man while on the other hand Timur won a personal following of dedicated soldiers. The two men could not have been any more different. Timur was generous in disturbing plundered treasure to his men which gained their loyalty; while Husayn levied heavy taxes on Timur and his men and was likewise uncooperative. Husayn's extreme greed for wealth did not go unnoticed. According to Islamic Studies Academic, Marshall G.S. Hodgson, in his “The Ventures of Islam Vol. 2”:
“The career of Timur presents in exaggerated form ways of acting and of reacting that were prevailing throughout the period, if usually in less spectacular form.”
Timur's marriage to Husayn's sister, Aljai, was one of the main factors which sealed the alliance between the two warlords. At her death in 1370, all family ties were severed leaving Timur free to attack his former ally. With the aspiration of resolving their rivalry he marched on Husayn's capital of Balkh. Husayn, who was laying in wait behind the walls of his fortified citadel, watched Timur's army surround the city as they started to advance.
Faced with the reality of his own demise, Husayn begged his former ally to spare his life while promising to immigrate from the region. Lacking confidence in Timur's promise Husayn ran and hid inside a minaret until he was discovered by one of Timur's soldiers looking to recover his lost horse. In desperation, Husayn began to bribe the soldier, but instead he went to report his discovery.
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