Pécs, Hungary 2019 The City of Culture
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When plotting their trips to Hungary, typically folks will plan on spending most, if not all, of their time in Budapest, thrusting spoons into bowls of goulash, splashing their way through thermal baths, and cavorting in antiques-filled ruin pubs. Spend just one night walking along the Danube to see all those shiny, twinkling buildings across the river and it becomes obvious why few travelers want to leave the confines of soulful Budapest. But the country is home to numerous other magical destinations, including Pécs, a charming getaway lying at the foot of the Mecsek mountains.
Located near the Croatian border, Pécs is about three hours southwest of Budapest via a comfortable train ride from either the Keleti or Kelenföld railway stations. Pécs has long prospered as a multicultural epicenter, the peaceful union of Hungarians, Croatians, Serbians, Germans, and other ethnic groups garnering it the nickname “the Borderless City.”
Although it’s Hungary’s fifth largest metropolis, it delightfully lacks an intense, overwhelming sense of bustle. Instead it’s polished and subdued, teeming with densely built-up streets of elegant Baroque structures and ancient artistic treasures that helped make it—as well as Essen and Istanbul—a 2010 European Capital of Culture. This honor spawned an impressive slate of urban developments for Pécs, from the revitalization of parks and squares to the creation of the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter. Yes, it’s a city that invites wandering on sultry, cardigan-only evenings, but it’s just as alluring in the winter— particularly when there’s an illuminated Christmas tree and festive stalls doling out cups of heartwarming mulled wine.
There is much to explore. The city’s roots stretch back more than 2,000 years, when it was first settled by the Celts. It later became part of the Roman Empire, a slice of history underscored by the fourth-century Early Christian Necropolis that is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Turks’ powerful hold on Pécs is most brilliantly revealed through the Mosque of Pasha Qasim, a green copper-domed relic from the Ottoman Empire, most likely constructed in the latter 16th century, that has since been converted into a Catholic church. Nearby is the must-gawk Pécs Cathedral. Originally built in the 11th century, several incarnations later it’s graced by a mighty collection of Romanesque sculptures.
Across from the cathedral is the petite Csontváry Museum, where up a grand staircase patrons find rooms dedicated to the poetic, large-scale works of Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka. The landscapes from this quirky Hungarian pharmacist-turned-painter from the 19th and early 20th centuries are especially rich. Beyond fine art, Pécs is synonymous with the decorative arts, specifically porcelain from the storied Zsolnay ceramics factory founded in 1853. Lustrous tiles produced here went on to dress buildings across the country, like Budapest’s Museum of Applied Arts. While the range of these ornate products are introduced to visitors at the Zsolnay Museum, it is even more interesting to while the day away in the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, a maze of promenades, greenery, and well-preserved buildings on the grounds of the original Zsolnay factory. The highlight of the complex is the Golden Age of the Zsolnay-Gyugyi Collection, where many intricate vases shimmer with textured eosin glaze. But there are also vintage puppets and politically charged exhibitions from modern-day artists like drMáriás to peruse, maybe even followed by a live jazz performance. For lunch, do settle into the lovely Zsolnay Restaurant and Café, where freshly baked potato bread whets the appetite for sweet-potato cream soup and steak salad spruced up by balsamic-Dijon mustard vinaigrette and a smattering of Grana Padano.
Elsewhere in Pécs the food is just as satisfying. Rustic Pezsgőház Étterem, for example, is set in an old wine cellar with arched brick ceilings. Grape-strewn goat cheese followed by a trio of golden pork cutlets draped over parsley-infused mashed potatoes provides pure cold-weather comfort. By contrast, the upbeat Jókai Bisztró is swish and contemporary, showing off myriad bottles of wine while serving refined platters of baked beef and bread dumplings. Afterwards, consider the animated Egylet, a craft-beer pub-meets Balkan bistro decorated with black-and-white photos and alarm clocks that showcases small-batch brews like those from made-in-Slovakia Kaltenecker.
Király Street is the perennially clogged strip, attracting both tourists and the party-loving youth who attend the University of Pécs, Hungary’s first university. Pay respects to the statue-adorned National Theatre of Pécs then pop into Cooltour Café, a cozy lair with mid-century furniture, for a nightcap of plum pálinka, Hungary’s indigenous fruit brandy.