ROB ROY WAY - Part Two
ROB ROY WAY: This video was our Day 2 on the currently unofficial 79-mile Long Distance Footpath that is referred to as the Rob Roy Way, although later in the week there is also an association with our National Bard Robert Burns. From Aberfoyle, this is another 10-mile trek, this time to the popular blue-rinse tourist Highland stop of Callander, a burgh in the region of Stirling, Scotland, situated on the River Teith and often referred to as the Gateway to the Highlands. The River Teith is host to Salmon and Sea Trout fishing and is where Kingfishers, Heron, Swans, Mink and otter can be spotted. It emerges as the Eas Gobhain from Loch Venachar on the Way and flows some 16 miles (26 km) south eastwards past Doune (of Python 'Castle Anthrax' fame) before joining the River Forth 3 miles (5 km) north west of Stirling.
Heading north-eastwards through the Menteith Hills and above Loch Venachar, this section of the (now also partly waymarked) Way is mostly along stony paths or forest tracks complete with styles to negotiate and of course the usual few boggy bits, with the final section into Callander rather unfortunately along a very busy race-track of a minor road. In Callander the converted St.Kessogs church overlooking a paved square across from the 'Trossachs' shop, lies the Rob Roy & Trossachs Visitor Centre, where as well as tourist information services, the Rob Roy exhibition and audio visual show can be viewed.
In hillwalking terms Callander is synonymous with Ben Ledi, both of which achieved prominence during the 1960s as the setting and backdrop for Tannochbrae in the first TV series of Dr. Finlays Casebook. The second series of Dr. Finlay was filmed in Auchtermuchty, perhaps more remembered of late for its mention in the Canadian Millers advert that got banned. As you may just recall the ad featured a Mounty who announced during the first of a two-part advert that he had informed his grandmother that he was going to visit Scotland for which she had given him a fox hat. In the second advert screened just a few minutes later, he proudly announced to his grandmother from a Scottish phone box that he was now in Auchtermuchty, to which she famously replied Wear the fox-hat. It got banned after only a few showings.
Callander's attraction to visitors goes back a long way. The Romans named this place Bochastle when they built a fort beside the River Teith here in the first century AD. Today this episode in Callander's history is marked primarily though the name of the Roman Camp Hotel, near the eastern end of the town. Check the pink Roman Camp building if you ever visit here. The last person to be tried and imprisoned for the crime of Witchcraft in the UK was Helen Duncan from Callander. In 1941 during World War II she held a séance in Portsmouth at which she indicated knowledge that HMS Barham (a Queen Elizabeth-class battleship of the Royal Navy named after Admiral Charles Middleton, 1st Baron Barham, built at the John Brown shipyards in Clydebank and launched in 1914) had been sunk. However, the Admiralty had decided not to inform or rather delay informing the British public of this information (they waited until the following year in 1942), so instead made the initial decision to attempt to discredit her.
Dominating the town to the north are the Callander Crags, a visible part of the Highland Boundary Fault (the geologic fault that traverses Scotland from Arran and Helensburgh on the west coast to Stonehaven in the east).
On this Day Two of the RRW we headed through 'Dounans' school camp, past Aberfoyle Golf Course before entering the Malling Forestry Estate followed by a walk through the Menteith Hills to the hillside wooden picnic bench-set with views over Loch Venachar to Ben Ledi. Lochan Allt a'Chip Dhuibh could be considered the highlight of the day although later that evening reflections in the River Teith were equally impressive. Once the Invertrossachs East Lodge Gateway is reached, theres still a three-mile road walk left to complete, the halfway point of which is denoted by the hump-back bridge that comes into view on your left.
Day three (next video) sees the RRW continue to Strathyre. Wordsworth described Rob in a flattering portrait - Rob Roy The MacGregor: -
Heaven gave Rob Roy a dauntless heart,
And wondrous length and strength of era,
Nor craved he more to quell his foes,
Or keep his friends from harm.
Yet was Rob Roy as wise as brave
Forgive me if the phrase he strong
A poet worthy of Rob Roy
Must scorn a timid song.
Bear witness many a pensive sigh
Of thoughtful herdsman when he strays
Alone upon Loch Veols heights,
And by Loch Lomonds braes!
A few years after that poem Sir Walter Scott published his novel 'Rob Roy' firmly establishing the Trossachs in literature. Our Day 2 ended at the Bridgend Hotel bar on the Way. We stayed overnight at the central Dreadnought 'Battle Cry' Hotel and visited the Crown Hotel.
- [April 2009].