Porquerolles Island, France 4K
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The beaches of Porquerolles, France: Secret Seaside
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Where is this beach? On the Ile de Porquerolles, off the French Riviera between Marseille and Cannes
Who's it good for? Families
What is there to do? Paddle on the beach, walk, sail
What makes it special? The French state bought most of Porquerolles in the 1970s, meaning that it is protected from over-development
Standing in the shallows, I let my toes sink into the pearl-white sand. Behind me, waves of peacock blue and green gently gather momentum. Facing me is a delicate strip of beach, shaped like a crescent moon: wide at its middle, with soft, tapered tips at each end. Eucalyptus and pines follow the beach’s curves. The Plage de Notre Dame is one of France's finest.
And that’s it: sea, sand and trees working together beautifully, creating a scene reminiscent of a distant desert island. Yet this beach – the Plage de Notre Dame – is far from remote. Just 20 minutes’ boat trip from Hyères, on France’s Mediterranean coast, Notre Dame dazzles on the north-eastern reach of the Ile de Porquerolles.
One of three islands, collectively known as the Iles d’Hyères, Porquerolles, at just over four miles long and around two miles wide, is intimate in scale. Its beaches are diminutive, too. I paddle the length of Notre Dame in just a few minutes. The fragrance of eucalyptus and pine hangs in the air with nothing to compete against it. There are no beachside shops or cafés pumping cooking smells into the air. Building on the island is tightly regulated, mainly forbidden.
Written records mentioning Porquerolles date back to the third century. Porquerolles’ only village, next to the harbour, was founded in the early 19th century but in 1912 the entire island was bought by a fantastically wealthy adventurer named François Joseph Fournier for his second wife for 1,000,000,010 francs. He planted 450 acres of vines, as well as hundreds of trees; he also built Le Mas du Langoustier hotel (see below). The Belgian writer Georges Simenon was another fan and set two of his novels, Le Cercle des Mahée and My Friend Maigret, there.
In 1971, the French state bought most of Porquerolles, protecting it against urbanisation by granting it national park status and designating it a conservation area during the Eighties. As a result, the island’s landscape resembles the French Riviera of centuries ago: oak forests, olive, fig, juniper and strawberry trees thrive, as do lavender, rosemary, rock rose, myrtle and other Mediterranean flora. Electric green dragonflies add flashes of colour around the island’s creeks and coves. Butterflies find rich sippings in the bountiful supply of nectar. I spot a butter-coloured brimstone floating over lavender bushes at the beach’s edge.
Porquerolles is relatively unknown by the British, but is a favourite with the French, and is busy in the summer and on public holidays. The best months are in late spring, and September and October. Late May sees Porquerolles at its most beautiful. Tender shoots are still green and fresh, blossoms exuberant with new colour. Nature fizzes – just before the burn of the summer sun begins and the fading starts.
I look back at the beach. Turquoise waves break slowly on the pristine shore, making forays onto waiting white sand. The trees, just beyond their reach, sigh in the gentle breeze. I can see why Joseph Fournier thought it would make such a wonderful wedding gift for his bride.
Porquerolles also known as the Île de Porquerolles, is an island in the Îles d'Hyères, Var, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France. Its land area is 1,254 hectares (12.54 km2; 4.84 sq mi) and in 2004 its population was about 200.
Porquerolles is the largest, most westerly of the three Îles d'Hyères. It is about 7 km (4.3 miles) long by 3 km (1.9 miles) wide, with five small ranges of hills. The south coast is lined with cliffs, and on the north coast are the port and the beaches of Notre Dame, La Courtade, and Plage d'Argent.