Third day of our recent East Coast trip. We visited the southernmost parts of Yilan County, including Dong'ao and Nan'ao. Very special places, indeed! :)
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Travel in Taiwan magazine (2017-05-06)
By Rick Charette
Coastal Scenery – Dong’ao and Nan’ao
The inexpressibly impressive Su-Hua Highway twists and turns, often high above the sea etched into the cliffs, 118km between Su’ao and the coastal city of Hualien. On this trip we venture south to the town of Nan’ao. The highway, a delivery vehicle to magisterial scenery in places, began as a mere footpath hacked from the coastal mountainsides by China’s Qing Dynasty government between 1874 and 1876. From Nanfang’ao to Nan’ao, the terrain is defined by steep cliffs footed by wave-pounded rocky shores, indented periodically by bays, small fishing ports, and narrow arable alluvial flatlands.
The Dong’ao port, small and tranquil Fenniaolin Fishing Harbor, is reached from the coastal highway via a long cliff-base road beside a broad turquoise-hue bay and gravel beach decorated with a fantastic kaleidoscope of stones each an artwork in itself, each a painter’s canvas of marvel-inducing color variation in miniature. The coastal highway here, seen above, snakes along so high up that crested serpent eagles drift below rather than above it.
The harbor is on the north-side foot of nose-shaped Wushibi, the most prominent headland along the Su-Hua Highway, which projects far out into the sea. Clamber over the dike-wall on the harbor’s ocean-facing side to enjoy the thrilling seascape of wave-washed reefs and water-surrounded rock formations at the hidden-away “Secret Rocky Shore.”
In Nan’ao, the Chaoyang Trail starts by the roadside just before Chaoyang Fishing Harbor. Stretching 2.2km, it runs up and over 181m-high Guishan (“Turtle Mountain”). The steep first section is conquered in 10~15 minutes, delivering hikers to a hilltop lookout with a commanding overview of harbor, sea, Wushibi on the north, and a narrow arm of the fertile, farm-dotted Nan’ao alluvial plain. Keep an eye out for tree frogs trailside, and eagles overhead.
If you happen to understand Chinese, and happen to search online for good places for a Nan’ao meal, you’re sure to come across the effusive recommendations given the country-warmth Good Eats Café. On the main floor of a two-floor residence just off the coastal highway on the Chaoyang Harbor road, it’s run by a Taipei refugee whose plan to move here to run a small organic farm morphed into running the café to showcase healthy local produce. Meals, based on what she has just harvested and purchased at Chaoyang Harbor, include such Taiwanese rural-style treats as chicken soup with mustard greens and yam, Hakka-style “tofu” made with peanut and rice powder (no soybean), and pumpkin cake.
Good Eats Café (好糧食堂)
Tel: 0919-117-273
Add: No. 13-1, Nan’ao Rd., Su’ao Township, Yilan County
(宜蘭縣蘇澳鎮南澳路13-1號)
Website: okogreen.com.tw/blog/4326 (Chinese)
Chaoyang Fishing Harbor
This harbor, sleepy most of the day, is bracketed by high bluffs. Wushibi serves as the natural barrier on its north side. The waters beyond the harbor are the richest fishing grounds in Su’ao Township’s south area. The rocky shores here are also a favorite with shore fishermen.
Local buyers and tourists flock here daily at around 7am and 4pm, when boats arrive laden with catch from the deep open sea and especially the rich Kuroshio Current that rushes north off the east coast. After boats dock impressively large and high-value migratory catch is tossed up, and camera-toting tourists are mightily impressed with the seemingly chaotic yet highly disciplined public buying process, carried out rapidly with surprising quiet.
Finish your southeastern Yilan expedition with a windy walk along long, long Mystery Beach, just south of the Chaoyang harbor/trail area. Nature’s power is on glorious display here. Artists delight at the prodigious pile-up of driftwood specimens driven high up the beach by Taiwan’s typhoons, and the mighty coastal currents create tremendous roiling waters that bash the shore with thundering audio accompaniment.
Chaoyang Fishing Harbor 朝陽漁港
Chaoyang Trail 朝陽步道
Fenniaolin Fishing Harbor 粉鳥林漁港
Mystery Beach 神秘海灘
Su-Hua Highway 蘇花公路
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Hsuehshan Tunnel Connects the World to Yilan, Taiwan
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Top 10 Hotels in Yilan - Taiwan
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00:08 1. Grand Boss Hotel, Yilan
00:57 2. RSL Cold & Hot Springs Resort Suao
01:46 3. Living Water Hotel, Jiaoxi
02:35 4. Leisure Bed and Breakfast
03:24 5. Guan Xiang Century, Jiaoxi
04:13 6. La Palette, Luodong
05:02 7. Shangrila Boutique Hotel
05:51 8. Just Sleep Jiao Xi
06:40 9. Hotel Royal Chiaohsi, Jiaoxi
07:29 10. Tianxiaju Motel, Yilan
Top 10 Hotels in Yilan - Taiwan
Yilan County (Mandarin Pīnyīn: Yílán Xiàn; Hokkien POJ: Gî-lân-koān; occasionally and formerly spelled I-lan[1]) is a county in northeastern Taiwan. Yilan is officially administered as a county of the Republic of China.
Since early ages, many people have traveled from far places to Yilan. Indigenous tribes that have settled in Yilan are Kavalan people and Atayal people.
The Kavalan people came by the sea and lived by the river at Yilan Plain since around 1,000 years ago. They mostly speak the Austronesian languages. Their settlements consisted of small villages along rivers with around 40-50 communities scattered around the area with a total population of approximately 10,000 people. The Atayal people came by crossing the Xiyuan Pass and settled in the mountain areas.
The Atayal people arrived in Yilan around 250 years ago and settled along the upper Dazhuoshui River. Later, the tribes crossed the Siyuan Pass to reach the valley upstream of the Zhuoshui River. These people are the current residents of Datong Township. Other parts of the Atayal people headed east to enter and settle along the Nan'ao North River and Heping North River. These groups are now settled in Nan-ao Township.
Around 200 years ago, at the end of the 18th century, the Han Chinese traversed the mountain range and settled in Yilan. Large populations began taming the wilderness, cultivating the fields and building irrigation channels. They used various means to seize lands from the Kavalans. Some Kavalans left their homes while some others migrated southwards to Hualien and Taitung coastlines and established settlements
A hotel is an establishment that provides paid lodging on a short-term basis. Facilities provided may range from a modest-quality mattress in a small room to large suites with bigger, higher-quality beds, a dresser, a refrigerator and other kitchen facilities, upholstered chairs, a flat screen television, and en-suite bathrooms. Small, lower-priced hotels may offer only the most basic guest services and facilities. Larger, higher-priced hotels may provide additional guest facilities such as a swimming pool, business centre (with computers, printers, and other office equipment), childcare, conference and event facilities, tennis or basketball courts, gymnasium, restaurants, day spa, and social function services. Hotel rooms are usually numbered (or named in some smaller hotels and B&Bs) to allow guests to identify their room. Some boutique, high-end hotels have custom decorated rooms. Some hotels offer meals as part of a room and board arrangement. In the United Kingdom, a hotel is required by law to serve food and drinks to all guests within certain stated hours.[citation needed] In Japan, capsule hotels provide a tiny room suitable only for sleeping and shared bathroom facilities.
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Three days in the northern part of Alishan, including Ruili and Laiji. Great scenery!
01:30 36 Bends 36彎
02:00 Taiping Village 太平
02:50 Bihu Tea Plantation 碧湖茶園
07:10 Zhukeng River Trail 竹坑溪步道
07:50 Longgong Waterfall 龍宮瀑布
10:40 & 13:40 A-Han's Homestay 阿漢的家民宿
14:10 Green Tunnel 綠色隧道
17:10 Swallows Cliff 燕子崖 & Bat Cave 蝙蝠洞
20:10 Yuntan Waterfall 雲潭瀑布
21:10 Ruitai Visitor Center 瑞太遊客中心
22:50 Lanhou Homestay 蘭后民宿
30:20 Laiji Buluo Chufang 來吉部落廚房
Chiayi 嘉義
Alishan 阿里山
Ruili 瑞里
Laiji 來吉
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A-Han's Homestay (阿漢的家民宿)
Add: No. 79, Ruili Village, Meishan Township, Chiayi County (嘉義縣梅山鄉瑞里村79號)
Tel: 0911-037-729
Website: (Chinese)
Lanhou Homestay (蘭后民宿)
Add: No. 11, Neighborhood 1, Laiji Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County (嘉義縣阿里山鄉來吉村一鄰11號)
Tel: (05) 266-1172, 0934-179-197
Website: (Chinese)
Bihu Tea Plantation (碧湖茶園)
Add: No. 38-9, Bihu Village, Meishan Township, Chiayi County (嘉義縣梅山鄉碧湖村38之9號)
Tel: (05) 257-1569
Website:
Laiji Buluo Chufang (來吉部落廚房)
Add: Sancha Rd., Laiji Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County (嘉義縣阿里山鄉來吉村三叉路)
Tel: 0975-117-154, 0971-225-687
Website:
Travel in Taiwan (2016, 3-4)
Alishan is renowned for high-quality high-mountain tea, and Bihushan Tourist Tea Garden is a photophile’s dream come true. The entire rounded mountain-head on which it is planted is sculpted with tight rows of Camellia sinensis, as neat as topiary, cut through with boardwalk trails. The sweeping panorama taken in from the trails or viewing platform before the open-front visitor center/restaurant is powerful. The waters of the rough river far below churn this way and that, on their short, impatient journey to the sea. Renowned Mt. Jade and Mt. Hehuan make cameos on clear days far off in the distance, as can a high slope-hugging arcade section of the gravity-defying Alishan Forest Railway. This tea-plantation mountaintop, often shrouded in cloud and mist, is a popular platform for watching Alishan’s celebrated sunrises, sunsets, and “sea of clouds” phenomenon – dense clouds roll into the abyss-like valleys like ocean tides, savored by tourists from eagle-eye vantage points.
The 3.3km Zhukeng Stream Trail has a trailhead at each end on Highway 162A, west of Ruifeng village. Formerly called the “Old Charcoal Way” – early residents used it to take charcoal off the mountain to trade – it passes over 12 bridges, each of different design. There are a number of cataracts, hikers’ grand prize the 120m-high Longgong (“Dragon Palace”) Waterfall, reached via a dead-end side trail about mid-way along the main trail. This is a “hanging valley waterfall,” and as it shoots out into space the waters do indeed seem to hang momentarily in mid-air before making their way to the bottom of the deep gorge here. Behind the lofty natural artwork is Water Curtain Cave, through which the side trail runs.
Next morning, we hit the trails right after breakfast – and stayed on them most of the day. First on our to-do list was the charming, long Green Tunnel, accessed via a short side road that begins right at sleepy Ruili village. You’re immersed in a lush forest of tall bamboo, walking along what is in fact a narrow road, not a trail. Paved and gentle-graded, this spot is also popular with local folk, who come here for their daily constitutionals.
Then we launched ourselves on the challenging, visually thrilling 2km Youth Ridge Trail at the highway-side trailhead in Ruili village, across from Ruili Elementary School. The 1,000-meter-long Haohan (“Hero”) Slope has an average grade of 60 degrees – yes, 60.
The countless bat-roost holes in the Bat Cave were formed over millions of years by river erosion. The deep grooves in the mesmerizingly striated Swallow Cliff are also erosion-etched, the softer sandstone levels wearing away faster than the harder shale.
A few kilometers further west along highway 166 is the entrance to the steep 600-meter Yuntan Waterfall boardwalk path and, just before it, Yuantan Natural Eco Park. The two-tiered cascade is 26.3m high; the terrain features alternating thick sandstone strata sandwiching thin shale layers, twisted in a wild jumble of folds and faults.
The Middle Way
Ms Yang is part of an effort to bring healthy and organic food to Kunming, a city in the Yunnan Province of China. But for her it goes beyond healthy. After graduating from University and working in business, she found a way to go back to the farm and fight for healthy and organic food. This inspiring story shares a hopeful future for food in China.
Created by: theperennialplate.com
In Partnership with Intrepid Travel: intrepidtravel.com/food/
Filmed and edited by:
Daniel Klein ( twitter.com/perennialplate/ )
Mirra Fine ( twitter.com/kaleandcola/)
Music by:
orangemightytrio.com/
Oriel: oriel.bandcamp.com/album/repetition-for-a-motion
Journey through Taiwan #5, a trip from Luodong to Shenkeng via Hsueschan MTN.
Part 5 in my little journey
Pengan County, Nanchong City, Sichuan, China
the cargo train and the county view