THE HYPE IS REAL: Lofoten Islands, Norway
Lofoten Islands, Norway - The Lofoten islands off the northern coast of Norway, are home to some of the most beautiful and rugged stretches of landscape I’ve ever seen.
Our journey to Lofoten actually started in the city of Bodø, where we spent the day exploring the city and the saltstraumen maelstrom before catching the ferry from Bodo to Lofoten (Moskenes).
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The saltstraumen is one of the best things to do in Bodo, as it is a small strait that connects the sea and a fjord with one of the strongest tidal currents in the world.
This wild whirlpool of boils and vortex’s happens when tides change and water funnels through the strait.
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From our basecamp in Sorvagen, we have two days to explore the best things to do in Lofoten, on the southern islands, before needing to report to the capital city of Svolvaer for a dream event.
Our first stop is on the southern end of Moskenes Island at little fishing village called Å - Once a town that specialized in stockfish, it’s main income now is tourism, although, there isn’t many people around this time of year - which is actually one of the big reasons why we came in March.
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Next up, its the oldest and perhaps most picturesque fishing village in the Lofoten Archipelago - Hamnøy
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And just a few minutes back down the E10, is Reine. The 69-acre village is the administrative center of Moskenes Municipality, has a population of 314 people, and it’s major lifeline is very easy to see - and smell.
Cod or Skrei, is known as the Norwegian Miracle.
Skrei comes from one of the world’s largest and most sustainably managed cod stocks.
Although it doesn’t seem like it here, only 10% of over 400 million migrating cod are caught and branded skrei.
All over the Lufoten islands between February and May, you’ll see an endless supply of drying cod on these giant wooden racks.
They’re left out here for about three months, before being brought inside to mature for up to another 12 months.
Stockfish is the countries longest sustained export commodity, going all the way back to the viking days.
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We also stopped at Anita's for her classic fish burger and finished the day at Ramberg beach (Rambergstranda).
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TRAVEL DEEPER.
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Homestay at Lahu Village In Northern Thailand
I spent a night at a Lahu Hill Tribe village during a trek in Maehongson Province.
The Lahu people migrated to northern Thailand through Yunnan province in China and Burma.
The population is around 150 and the village is overseen by a chieftain, who retains this position until age 60. While animism is deeply embedded in Lahu culture, some villagers also practice buddhism and christianity. The village shaman’s house is marked with some distinctive decorations.
Our guide also informed us that most hill tribe people rarely obtain formal land rights, usually just building on and farming uninhabited land.
The level of infrastructure here seems a bit more basic. Most of the village is unpaved and villagers relied on individual solar panels for electricity instead of an on grid supply.
Water for the village is pumped from an unfiltered local stream and not a municipal supply. Although it is fairly safe to drink, bottled drinking water was brought in for tour guests to avoid stomach issues.
Chickens, dogs and small pigs roamed and foraged freely through the village although large adult pigs were kept in pens. We saw some cute, skittish newborn piglets playing next to their protective mother.
Most of the dwellings are stilted bamboo houses with pigs, dogs, chickens cohabitating under the raised platforms. The family we stayed with had a large house at the top of the hill with two separate sleeping quarters, a kitchen and an outdoor common area all connected on a raised platform.
The rooms and outdoor area had solar-powered lights and the Lahu family’s room also had satellite TV. I counted 8 people from 3 different generations staying and the non-partitioned room.
The grandma appeared the hardest working person in the home stay family. She did most of the cleaning, washed dishes, carried water, chopped firewood, started the fire, and woke up early to feed the pigs. It’s not everyday you meet a spritely machete wielding matriarch.
Our industrious guide started preparing dinner the moment we arrived at the house without taking a moment to relax. The kitchen room consistent of a fire pit with a kettle, pot, fry pan and charcoal grill. There was a shelf to store plates and utensils and a raised wooden platform to hold the produce transported to the village earlier in the day. The Lahu villagers placed slices of wild lemon in the doorway to keep insects away from the other food and hung a small platform above the flame where the smoke would help preserve herbs, spices etc…
Our guide made chicken massaman curry (gaeng matsamun gai แกงมัสมั่นไก่), roast chicken (gai yang ไก่ย่าง), and stir fried vegetables (pad phak ผัดผัก) for dinner. The flavors were good and this was a nice satisfying meal after trekking.
The 8 guests on the tour slept in two rows of four in a approx 30 square meter room. This was cozy but not cramped and the room was very clean. We were provided with an inch thick mattress, mosquito net, sleeping bag and blanket. Although it was a little nippy at night, I found the sleeping bag more than sufficient for warmth and used the blanket as a pillow. The mosquito net didn’t do a particularly good job of keeping out bugs and I got bit a several times overnight.
The roosters started crowing around 2am and continued until about 7am. The calls usually came in waves, instigated by more vociferous individuals and followed by equally enthusiastic imitators, of which there were many. The village loud-speaker comes to life around 6:45 am with songs and various announcements in Lahu language.
Notwithstanding the nocturnal nuisances, the home stay was a clean and comfortable experience. For more fastidious travelers, I wouldn’t let staying in a hill tribe village dissuade you from trying an overnight trek.
Please see here for related blog post:
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