LIVORNO - Italy Travel Guide | Around The World
Livorno is a port on the coast of Tuscany in central Italy, on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Though not generally seen as holiday destination, Livorno has many travellers passing through or spending a few hours in town as it features on cruise itineraries and is the departure point for ferries to the islands of Corsica, Elba and Capraia. Although overshadowed by nearby attractions such as Pisa and Florence, Livorno is a pleasant enough place to spend a short time and it is a practical base if you have an early or late ferry. The port's English name, dating back to a time of merchant ships and Grand Tourists, is Leghorn.
Livorno doesn't have the long history or quaint medieval centre of a typical Tuscan town. This is because it was purpose-built as a port in the 16th century, designed as an ideal mercantile modern city. Its harbours, fortresses and waterways are testament to the functional planning of the town, while a variety of churches record the presence of merchants from many countries. Nowadays Livorno is a busy city with, in places, a vaguely down-at-heel air, but a bit of exploring soon reveals the town's more interesting sights.
As Livorno is not a particularly obvious venue for sightseeing, a good first stop is the tourist information office on Via Pieroni, between Piazza Grande and Piazza del Municipio (housed in a building like a small shopping mall). Here you can obtain a map, timetables for boat trips and additional information about local attractions.
The most interesting part of Livorno to explore is the 17th-century New Venice district, the Quartiere Venezia, or Venezia Nuova. Surrounded by canals, this was a rather grandiose conception where merchants' houses and warehouses were built with water access. Nowadays there are a few interesting shops, restaurants and bars in this area, where plenty of locals still keep their boats moored. Some of the town's grander architecture can be seen along Via Borra, which runs through the heart of this unusual district. A festival called Effetto Venezia takes place here each summer.
The Scottish writer Tobias Smollett died in Livorno in 1771 and is buried in the town's historic Protestant cemetery. This is usually only open by special arrangement, but you can peer through the gate or over the wall to see the clutter of stone monuments filling the leafy graveyard. Smollett's Journeys Through France and Italy (available on the Project Gutenberg website) is a very entertaining read and full of tales of villainous innkeepers. The cemetery (Cimitero Inglese) is alongside Via Verdi, with its gateway on a side-street, almost opposite the junction with Via Adua.
Other sights include the 'old' and 'new' brick fortresses, both dating to the 16th century and encircled by water - the walls of the Fortezza Nuova now enclose a park, closed in recent years. The town's cathedral was rebuilt after Second World War bombing; inside is a painting by Fra Angelico, displayed in the Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento. Other historic churches are scattered around the town. Livorno has a city art gallery, the Museo Civico Giovanni Fattori, housed in 19th-century Villa Mimbelli, and also an aquarium. If you are spending time in Livorno, it may be worth purchasing the Livorno Card which includes local transport and museum admission; details can be found on the council website.
A boat trip around Livorno's canals (fossi) is an entertaining way to see the town; tours run several times a day and some include extra attractions such as a visit to the market. Sights along the canals include the market and churches including the lovely but crumbling Dutch-German church, the Chiesa degli Olandesi (near Piazza Cavour).
Via Grande, a street lined with modern arcades, cuts through the centre of Livorno, from Piazza della Repubblica to the Porto Mediceo, and is a useful place for a spot of high-street shopping. Bus number 1 from the station follows this route. The wide Piazza della Repubblica has views across the canal to the Fortezza Nuova, and is a majestic open space. After touring the centre of Livorno, visitors can enjoy a walk along the seafront to the south of the town centre, beyond the port district, where the seafront road passes parks, bathing establishments and little harbours.
Livorno has a choice of cheap and moderate restaurants where you can eat seafood and traditional Tuscan cuisine. The canal area is a good place to start - options include the informal Sugo at Via Borra 51. Livorno has a large purpose-built covered food market, open Monday-Saturday mornings, where you can find local produce. The grand 19th-century market building stands alongside a canal and is a picturesque as well as lively sight. Specialities to try in Livorno include ponce, a drink composed of coffee and rum, and cacciucco, a hearty local seafood stew.
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Catania
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Profile of Catania (Greek: Κατάνη -- Katánē; Latin: Catana and Catina; Arabic: Balad-al-Fil or Medinat-al-Fil, Wadi Musa and Qataniyah) is the second-largest city of Sicily, southern Italy, and is the capital of the province which bears its name.
Towns and Villages in the Province of Catania - Aci Bonaccorsi | Aci Castello | Aci Catena | Aci Sant'Antonio | Acireale | Adrano | Belpasso | Biancavilla | Bronte | Calatabiano | Caltagirone | Camporotondo Etneo | Castel di Judica | Castiglione di Sicilia | Catania | Fiumefreddo di Sicilia | Giarre | Grammichele | Gravina di Catania | Licodia Eubea | Linguaglossa | Maletto | Maniace | Mascali | Mascalucia | Mazzarrone | Militello in Val di Catania | Milo | Mineo | Mirabella Imbaccari | Misterbianco | Motta Sant'Anastasia | Nicolosi | Palagonia | Paternò | Pedara | Piedimonte Etneo | Raddusa | Ragalna | Ramacca | Randazzo | Riposto | San Cono | San Giovanni la Punta | San Gregorio di Catania | San Michele di Ganzaria | San Pietro Clarenza | Sant'Agata li Battiati | Sant'Alfio | Santa Maria di Licodia | Santa Venerina | Scordia | Trecastagni | Tremestieri Etneo | Valverde | Viagrande | Vizzini | Zafferana Etnea
With some 306,000 inhabitants (750,000 in the metropolitan area) it has the second highest population density on the island. The city's patron saint is Saint Agatha. Catania is located on the east coast of the island, halfway between Messina and Siracusa and is at the foot of the active volcano Mount Etna.
History and Foundation
All ancient authors agree in representing Catania as a Greek colony named Κατάνη
(Katánē—see also List of traditional Greek place names) of Chalcidic origin, but founded immediately from the neighboring city of Naxos, under the guidance of a leader named Euarchos (Euarchus). The exact date of its foundation is not recorded, but it appears from Thucydides to have followed shortly after that of Leontini (modern Lentini), which he places in the fifth year after Syracuse, or 730 BCE. (Thuc. vi. 3; Strabo vi. p. 268; Scymn. Ch. 286; Scyl. § 13; Steph. B. s. v.)
Greek Sicily
The only event of its early history which has been transmitted to us is the legislation of Charondas, and even of this the date is wholly uncertain.
But from the fact that his legislation was extended to the other Chalcidic cities, not only of Sicily, but of Magna Graecia also, as well as to his own country (Arist., Pol. ii. 9), it is evident that Catania
continued in intimate relations with these kindred cities. It seems to have retained
its independence till the time of Hieron of Syracuse, but that despot, in 476 BCE, expelled all the original inhabitants, whom he established at Leontini, while he repeopled the city with a new body of colonists, amounting, it is said, to not less than 10,000 in number, and consisting partly of Syracusans, partly of Peloponnesians.
He at the same time changed its name to Αἴτνη (Aítnē, Aetna or Ætna, after the nearby volcano), and caused himself to be proclaimed the Oekist or founder of the new city. As such he was celebrated by Pindar, and after his death obtained heroic honors from the citizens of his new colony. (Diod. xi. 49, in 66; Strab. l.c.; Pind. Pyth. i., and Schol. ad loc.)
But this state of things was of brief duration, and a few years after the death of Hieron and the expulsion of Thrasybulus, the Syracusans combined with Ducetius, king of the Siculi, to expel the newly settled inhabitants of Catania, who were compelled to retire to the fortress of Inessa (to which they gave the name of Aetna), while the old Chalcidic citizens were reinstated in the possession of Catania
, 461 BCE. (Diod. xi. 76; Strab. l. c.)
The period which followed the settlement of affairs at this epoch appears to have been one of great prosperity for Catania, as well as for the Sicilian cities in general: but we have no details of its history till the great Athenian expedition to Sicily (part of the larger Peloponnesian War).
On that occasion the Catanaeans, notwithstanding their Chalcidic connections, at first refused to receive the Athenians into their city: but the latter having effected an entrance, they found themselves compelled to espouse the alliance of the invaders, and Catania became in consequence the headquarters of
the Athenian armament throughout the first year of the expedition, and the base of their subsequent operations against Syracuse. (Thuc. vi. 50-52, 63, 71, 89; Diod. xiii. 4, 6, 7; Plut. Nic. 15, 16.)
We have no information as to the fate of Catania after the close of this expedition:
it is next mentioned in 403 BCE, when it fell into the power of Dionysius I of Syracuse, who sold the inhabitants as slaves, and gave up the city to plunder; after which he established there a body of Campanian mercenaries. These, however, quitted it again in 396 BCE, and retired to Aetna, on the approach of the great Carthaginian armament under Himilco and Mago. The great sea-fight in which the latter defeated Leptines, the brother of Dionysius, was fought immediately off Catania, and the city apparently fell, in consequence, into the hands of the Carthaginians. (Diod. xiv. 15, 58, 60.)
But we have no account of its subsequent fortunes, nor does it appear who constituted its new population; it is only
certain that it continued to exist. Callippus, the assassin of Dion, when he was expelled from Syracuse, for a time held possession of Catania (Plut. Dion. 58); and when Timoleon landed in Sicily we find it subject to a despot named Mamercus, who at first joined the Corinthian leader but afterwards abandoned his alliance for that of the Carthaginians, and was in consequence attacked and expelled by Timoleon. (Diod. xvi. 69; Plut. Timol. 13, 30-34.) Catania was now restored to liberty, and appears to have continued to retain its independence; during the wars of Agathocles with the Carthaginians, it sided at one time with the former, at others with the latter; and when Pyrrhus landed in Sicily, Catania was the first to open its gates to him, and received him with the greatest magnificence. (Diod. xix. 110, xxii. 8, Exc. Hoesch. p. 496.)
Roman rule
In the First Punic War, Catania was one of the first among the cities of Sicily,
which made their submission to the Romans, after the first successes of their arms in 263 BCE. (Eutrop. ii. 19.) The expression of Pliny (vii. 60) who represents it as having been taken by Valerius Messala, is certainly a mistake.
It appears to have continued afterwards steadily to maintain its friendly relations with Rome, and though it did not enjoy the advantages of a confederate city (foederata civitas), like its neighbors Tauromenium (modern Taormina and Messana (modern Messina), it rose to a position of great prosperity under the Roman rule. Cicero repeatedly mentions it as, in his time, a wealthy and flourishing city; it retained its ancient municipal institutions, its chief magistrate bearing the title of Proagorus; and appears to have been one of the principal ports of Sicily for the export of corn. (Cic. Verr. iii. 4. 3, 83, iv. 23, 45; Liv. xxvii. 8.)
It subsequently suffered severely from the ravages of Sextus Pompeius, and was in consequence one of the cities to which a colony was sent by Augustus; a measure that appears to have in a great degree restored its prosperity, so that in Strabo's time it was one of the few cities in the island that was in a flourishing condition (Strab. vi. pp. 268, 270, 272; Dion Cass. iv. 7.)
It retained its colonial rank, as well as its prosperity, throughout the period of the Roman Empire; so that in the fourth century Ausonius in his Ordo Nobilium Urbium, notices Catania and Syracuse
alone among the cities of Sicily. (Plin. iii. 8. s. 14; Ptol. iii. 4. § 9; Itin. Ant. pp. 87,90, 93, 94).
After the fall of the Roman Empire
In 535, Catania was recovered by Belisarius from the Goths, and became again, under
the rule of the Byzantine Empire, one of the most important cities of the island. (Procop. B. G. i. 5.). It was extensively destroyed by earthquakes in 1169 and 1693 and by lava flows which ran over and around it into the sea.
The first Sicilian university was founded there in 1434.
Locational significance
The position of Catania at the foot of Mount Etna was the source, as Strabo remarks, both of benefits and evils to the city. For on the one hand, the violent outbursts of the volcano from time to time
desolated great parts of its territory; on the other, the volcanic ashes produced a soil of great fertility, adapted especially for the growth of vines. (Strab. vi. p. 269.)
One of the most serious calamities of the former class was the eruption of 121 BCE, when great part of its territory was overwhelmed by streams of lava, and the hot ashes fell in such quantities in the city itself, as to break in the roofs of the houses. Catania was in consequence exempted, for 10 years, from its usual contributions to the Roman state. (Oros. v. 13.)
The greater part of the broad tract of plain to the southwest of Catania (now called the Piano di Catania, a district of great fertility), appears to have belonged, in ancient times, to Leontini or Centuripa (modern Centuripe), but that portion of it between Catana itself and the mouth of the Symaethus, was annexed to the territory of the latter city, and must have furnished abundant supplies of corn.
The port of Catania also, which was in great part filled up by the eruption of 1669, appears to have been in ancient times much frequented, and was the chief place of export for the corn of the rich neighboring plains. The little river Amenanus, or Amenas, which flowed through the city, was a very small stream, and could never have been navigable.
Catania's renown in antiquity. Catania was the birth-place of the philosopher and legislator Charondas; it was also the place of residence of the poet Stesichorus, who died there, and was buried in a magnificent sepulchre outside one of the gates, which derived from thence the name of Porta Stesichoreia. (Suid. s. v. Στησίχορος.) Xenophanes, the philosopher of Elea, also spent the latter years of his life there (Diog. Laert. ix. 2. § 1), so that it was
evidently, at an early period, a place of cultivation and refinement.
The first introduction of dancing to accompany the flute, was also ascribed to Andron, a citizen of Catania (Athen. i. p. 22, c.); and the first sundial that was set up in the Roman forum was carried thither by Valerius Messala from Catania, 263 BCE. (Varr. ap. Plin. vii. 60.)
But few associations connected with Catania were more celebrated in ancient times than the legend of the Pii Fratres, Amphinomus and Anapias, who, on occasion of a great eruption of Etna, abandoned all their property, and carried off their aged parents on their shoulders, the stream of lava itself was said to have parted, and flowed aside so as not to harm them. Statues were erected to their honor, and the place of their burial was known as the Campus Piorum; the Catanaeans even introduced the figures of the youths on their coins, and the legend became a favorite subject of allusion and declamation among the Latin poets, of whom the younger Lucilius and Claudian have dwelt upon it at considerable length.
The occurrence is referred by Hyginus to the first eruption of Etna that took place after the settlement of Catania (Strab. vi. p. 269; Paus. x. 28. § 4; Conon, Narr. 43; Philostr. Vit. Apoll. v. 17;Solin. 5. § 15; Hygin. 254; Val. Max. v. 4. Ext. § 4; Lucil. Aetn. 602-40; Claudian. Idyll. 7; Sil. Ital. xiv. 196; Auson. Ordo Nob. Urb. 11.)
Culture
The opera composer Vincenzo Bellini was born in Catania , and a museum exists at his birthplace. The Teatro Massimo Bellini, which opened in 1890, is named after the composer. The opera house presents a variety of operas through a season, which run from December to May, many of which are the work of Bellini.
In the late 1980s and 1990s Catania had a unique popular music scene with local
radio stations. As a result of these idiosyncratic and regional radio stations Catania boasted a youth culture in which indie pop and indie rock from lesser known
international bands like. As a result of the eclectic taste in indie pop and indie rock Catania has been the birthplace of a number of dynamic and unusual independent music record labels.
The city is the home of Amatori Catania rugby union team, and Calcio Catania football team.
Transportation
Catania has a commercial seaport (Catania seaport)
in the city, an international airport (Catania Fontanarossa) to the South, a central train station (Catania Centrale) on the main lines Messina-Syracuse, Catania -Gela and Catania -Palermo , as well as the privately owned small-gauge Circumetnea railway which runs for 110
km from Catania round the base of Mount Etna. It attains the height of 976 m above
sea level before descending to rejoin the coast at Giarre-Riposto to the North.
In the late 1990s/early 2000s the first line of an underground railway was built, but never completed, under the
city, extending the Circumetnea from its stop on the north side of town to the Central Railway Station on the
southeast.
Main Sights
The symbol of the city is u Liotru, or the Fontana dell'Elefante and was constructed in 1736 by Giovanni Battista
Vaccarini. It is a manufact in lava stone portraying an elephant and surmounted by an obelisk. Legend has it that
Vaccarini's original elephant was neuter, which the men of Catania took as an insult
to their virility. To appease them, Vaccarini appended appropriately elephantine testicles to the original statue.
The Sicilian name u Liotru is perhaps a deformation of Heliodorus. A similar sculpture is in Piazza Santa Maria
della Minerva in Rome.
The city has been buried by lava a total of seven times in recorded history, and in layers under the present day
city are the Roman city that preceded it, and the Greek city before that.
Many of the ancient monuments of the Roman city have been destroyed by the numerous earthquakes.
Catania is the birthplace of the composer Vincenzo Bellini (1801). An opera house,
the Teatro Massimo Bellini is named after him and a museum exists on the site of his birth.
The city's monuments also include:
The Piazza del Duomo is attractive, lively and contains the Elephant Fountain - the symbol of the city.
The adjacent Cathedral (Duomo) is imposing and worth a visit.
The food and fish markets just below the Piazza del Duomo are a lively and colourful place to visit.
Via Etnea - the main shopping street, north of the Piazza del Duomo has most of the city's imposing building and is
busy throughout the day and evening.
Information courtesy of Wikipedia -