64 Foot Wave - Mike Parsons At Jaws Beach, Hawaii
Mike Parsons (born March 13, 1965, in California) is an american professional surfer and surfing coach.
Parsons was raised in Laguna Beach, California and began surfing when he was six-years-old. In 1983, he earned second place in the Junior Division of the United States Surfing Championships.
In 2001, Parsons was towed into a 66-foot wave at Cortes Bank, CA, for which he was awarded $66,000 the highest prize ever awarded in the history of professional surfing. This money was awarded by the Billabong XXL competition which paid tribute to the biggest waves ridden each year. Parsons also surfed a 64-foot wave during competition at the Jaws break on the north shore of Maui. It was filmed by helicopter and used as the opening scene of the 2003 film Billabong Odyssey. A usually uncredited clip of this sequence has gone on to become a viral video, attributed to a number of different surfers, locations, and in many cases, a Tsunami.
Parsons later broke his record on January 5, 2008, at Cortes Bank, when he was photographed surfing a wave that the Billabong XXL judged to be 77 feet, which put him in the Guinness Book of World Records, officially, for biggest wave ever surfed. Nearly 4 years later Garrett McNamara improved on this record with a 78-foot wave off Nazaré, Portugal on November 1, 2011.
In 2011, Parsons became the full-time coach for surfer Kolohe Andino.
On January 20, 2013, Parsons suffered a broken C7 vertebra in his neck and nearly drowned while surfing triple-overhead surf at Ocean Beach, a beach break in San Francisco, California. Parsons was able to return to surfing four months later.
Parsons was inducted into the Surfer's Hall of Fame in Huntington Beach, California in 2008.
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Probably you'll never find this footage with this soundtrack since I've decided to mix them, so enjoy =]
North Shore Oahu ✔ OTA - Reef Hawaiian Pro 2013 Pipeline ★HD★ Hale'iwa Surfing Competition - Hawaii
2013 Pipeline, Hale'iwa Beach, North Shore Oahu, Hawaii. Reef Hawaiian Pro Surfing Competition, day 2 of the event, with Ian Walsh winning the heat in 1st place on November 15th 2013.
This video is about hanging out at Haleiwa at the beach during the Reef Hawaiian Pro Surfing Competition. Most of the video is of the area around where I'm sitting and a few actual surfing shots. You'll see a hot girl in a bikini a few times as I don't think they get much sexier than her. You'll get to see some incredible big waves and just how beautiful the ocean can be. If you're looking carefully, you'll also get to see some turtles that are hanging out near the shore as they bop their heads up once in a while. Aloha.
Recorded with a Sony High-Def Camcorder at 60 frames per second, full progressive 1920x1080 resolution, and 5.1 (6 audio channels) digital surround sound. Edited on an iMac with Final Cut Pro X and produced with recorded parameters entact, such as 1080p, 60fps, 5.1 AC3. If any of these settings are converted to anything less than what this video was produced at, is caused completely by the hosting website re-encoding the video and audio to their standards. YouTube will essentially give the best results, while Facebook will reduce the audio to stereo and reduce the 60fps to the standard 30fps, and the resolution is sub-standard, even if it claims 1080p, the codec used produces garbage video.
Aloha. You are at a sub-site of the OFFICIAL Oahu Tourist Authority of Hawaii.
for Fun & Inexpensive Activities in Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii
for Gorgeous Beach Babes in Bikinis at Waikiki Beach, but Please, Adults Only is a Good Rule of Thumb.
Oahu Tourist Authority of OahuTouristAuthority.com brings you incredible and gorgeous videos from Honolulu, Oahu, and more of Hawaii than anyone else. Virtually and on-demand, we bring it all. Transform your soul by watching and listening to the amazing sensory overloads that excite all of your optical and auditorial receptors with tropical enhancements to your frontal lobe bringing you to a lustful orgasmic experience of cosmic proportions. Virtually enjoy the Island of Oahu right now from wherever you are. Always remember, OahuTouristAuthority.com is The Gold Standard of Excellence in all of the tourism professionals. Oahu Tourist Authority specializes in Hawaii Tourism in all of the Island of Oahu, Hawaii, and even beyond. Count on us. We are the official leader in online virtual Hawaiian tourism.
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Note: All content is copyright and may not be used or altered without express written consent. *Only except where video sharing / embedding is enabled and the provided embed code be unaltered, specifically the text data, so that the video (including the audio, theme colors, images, text, narration, jingle, tag line, & everything related to the video) remains completely original and also the video must contain all proper credits to DaBeachBum. Contact DaBeachBum at me døt cøm for information about purchasing video rights of use, or to request a feature video in a specific area or location on the Island of Oahu, Hawaii, or any of the surrounding Hawaiian Islands.
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Sara, Lily & Aaron Gone Surfin' on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu
Sara, Lily & Aaron Gone Surfin' on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu
Surfing Hawaii, Pipeline, Rocky Point, Waimea, Waikiki
This is a short survey of surfing mostly on the north shore of O'ahu. Breaks include Rocky Point, Banzai Pipeline, Waimea Bay, Sunset Beach. Both the front door and back door at the pipe are featured.
BIGGEST SURF OAHU NORTH SHORE HAWAII
North Shore, Val's Reef, Sunset Beach, Oahu, Hawaii - High Surf Advisory :)
Oahu, Sunset Beach in winter - surfers paradies.
Hawaiian name: Paumalū.
Home to the Duke Kahanamoku Classic surfing competition, the O'Neill World Cup of Surfing competition, and is occasionally the site of the Quiksilver Big Wave International startet in 1964.
Music is licensed by soundcritters.com
Waikiki Beach Travel with Guide - Honolulu, Hawaii, USA
One of the best known beaches in the world, Waikiki was the favorite playground of Hawaiian royalty in the 19th century. At the time, Waikiki was an area of wetlands fed by streams from the valleys above Honolulu. That all changed in the 1920s when the government decided to build what would become the Ala Wai Canal, which would drain the wetlands and pave the way for later development.
These days, this 1.5 mile (2.4 km) stretch of white sand beach is the nucleus of Hawaii's tourist industry, packed full of high-rise hotels that promise to treat you like a king, some of which may also require a king's ransom for admission. Although it is often criticized for its concrete-jungle appearance, large crowds, and touristy feel, there is a lot to enjoy here and you can still find a quiet spot if you know where to look.
Men riding the surf on surfboard and in outriggers in Hawaii, United States. HD Stock Footage
CriticalPast is an archive of historic footage. The vintage footage in this video has been uploaded for research purposes, and is presented in unedited form. Some viewers may find some scenes or audio in this archival material to be unsettling or distressing. CriticalPast makes this media available for researchers and documentarians, and does not endorse or condone any behavior or message, implied or explicit, that is seen or heard in this video.
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Men riding the surf on surfboard and in outriggers in Hawaii, United States.
Men riding the surf in Hawaii. Men ride the surf in outrigger. Diamond Head, a volcanic mountain in the background. Man on surfboard rides surf. Man and woman on surfboard ride surf. Several views of men riding surf in outrigger. Location: Hawaii. Date: September 3, 1945.
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Ulua Fishing - GT Fishing - Drone Fishing - Oahu Hawaii
We went Ulua fishing with our friend Jensen and learned a whole bunch and had a great time! There's many ways to catch Uluas and you can see some of the ways we learned in this week's video. Cool ways to catch bait and set up rigs and how we use the drone to take the baits out.
Also caught a huge Toau while dunking at night!
Huge thanks to Jensen for sharing these tactics with us! Can't wait to go again!!
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TICA Rod Only -
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Whipping Rod -
Camera -
GoPro chest mount -
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#tako #ulua #dronefishing
Waikiki King Tide Epic Mayhem!!!
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More about the king tide in Hawai'i for May 2017:
Taken from hawaiinewsnow.com
WAIKIKI -
Parts of the state's most famous beach all but disappeared Thursday, as a king tide coupled with a south swell pushed up surf along Waikiki's shoreline to well beyond the normal high water mark.
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Waikiki hotels, businesses prep for threat of coastal flooding
Coastal areas at risk from 'king tides,' rising sea levels, summer swells
There were no immediate reports of flooding, but water was hitting barriers that had been put in place in advance of the exceptionally high tide.
Also Thursday, the Hilton Hawaiian Village announced it would cancel its Friday night fireworks because of the high waters out of an abundance of caution.
Forecasters are warning coastal communities to prepare for the higher water levels through Sunday.
The peak tide happened at 4:21 p.m. Thursday, and when it did researchers were in Waikiki to take a look.
That's because of the possible implications that coastal erosion and rising sea levels could have on the state's no. 1 tourist destination.
which is the main economic driver for the islands.
Phil Thompson, of the University of Hawaii Sea Level Center, said if a tourist in Waikiki this week never actually got to see the beach, Do they want to come back? This has big economic impacts and the structures here are increasingly in danger.
Through the week, peak water levels are set to happen at these times:
5:07 p.m. Friday
5:55 p.m. Saturday
6:46 p.m. Sunday
The tide levels on those days is expected to be 2.3 to 2.5 feet above the average low water mark.
Elsewhere on the island Thursday, the effects of the high tides were also being seen.
In Ewa Beach, surf was washing onto roads or coming dangerously close to residents' back yards. The high tide also pushed waters onto the Pearl Harbor bike path, making it virtually impassable. And in Mapunapuna, which often sees water on the roads during high tides, water could be seen more than a foot deep.
Through the week, hotels and businesses in the state's top tourist destination have put down sandbags in vulnerable spots, and warned guests and others about the possibility of flooding in underground parking garages.
One of the areas that we're particularly concerned about ... is many of the emergency generators are located in the basements, so were advising them to be prepared to protect them if needed, said Dolan Eversole, of the University of Hawaii Sea Grant College Program.
King tides are a popular term for exceptionally high tides — that go above the highest water level reached during high tide on a normal day.
The arrival of a king tide during a south swell (and given overall sea level rise) is causing significant concern, not least of which because of ongoing erosion along Waikiki Beach.
The Hilton Hawaiian Village had planned to go ahead with its Friday night fireworks show, saying it had built a special platform after having to cancel a show last month. But the hotel decided to cancel after seeing the tide moving in Thursday.
Meanwhile, lifeguards are bracing for a busy Memorial Day weekend, and warning that the high tide and swell could also produce dangerous ocean conditions.
We'll have our full complement of 17 mobile response units, our eight rescue craft and all of our 42 towers around the island will be staffed, said Jim Howe, director of the Department of Emergency Services.
Authorities are warning people to avoid rocky ledges along coastlines to avoid being swept away.
They're also urging families to keep a close eye on children playing on the sand.
Be alert for strong currents. With tides this high there's a lot of water moving around so there's an increased threat for rip currents, said John Bravender, NWS Acting Warning Coordination Meteorologist.
Waikiki Beach Surfer Surfing ✔ OTA - Surfs on Head Backwards ★HD★
Surfer Surfs on Head & Backwards at Waikiki Beach Honolulu Hawaii Oahu & Morning Tour - 2014-03-27
Aloha. You are at a sub-site of the OFFICIAL Oahu Tourist Authority of Hawaii.
for Fun & Inexpensive Activities in Honolulu, Oahu, Hawaii
for Gorgeous Beach Babes in Bikinis at Waikiki Beach, but Please, Adults Only is a Good Rule of Thumb.
Oahu Tourist Authority of OahuTouristAuthority.com brings you incredible and gorgeous videos from Honolulu, Oahu, and more of Hawaii than anyone else. Virtually and on-demand, we bring it all. Transform your soul by watching and listening to the amazing sensory overloads that excite all of your optical and auditorial receptors with tropical enhancements to your frontal lobe bringing you to a lustful orgasmic experience of cosmic proportions. Virtually enjoy the Island of Oahu right now from wherever you are. Always remember, OahuTouristAuthority.com is The Gold Standard of Excellence in all of the tourism professionals. Oahu Tourist Authority specializes in Hawaii Tourism in all of the Island of Oahu, Hawaii, and even beyond. Count on us. We are the official leader in online virtual Hawaiian tourism.
You. Want To Be Here. ©2014 DaBeachBum
OahuTouristAuthority.com
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Note: All content is copyright and may not be used or altered without express written consent. *Only except where video sharing / embedding is enabled and the provided embed code be unaltered, specifically the text data, so that the video (including the audio, theme colors, images, text, narration, jingle, tag line, & everything related to the video) remains completely original and also the video must contain all proper credits to DaBeachBum. Contact DaBeachBum at me døt cøm for information about purchasing video rights of use, or to request a feature video in a specific area or location on the Island of Oahu, Hawaii, or any of the surrounding Hawaiian Islands.
All content is copyright, including but not limited to: Videos & Pictures, Audio & Sounds, Words & Text, MetaData & ClipArt, Associated Domain Names (including but not limited to: OahuTouristAuthority.com & HiTourism.net & FreeWaikiki.com & WaikikiSales.com (& many more)), TradeMark Names (including but not limited to: DaBeachBum & DaBeachBum.com & CoolBrent & BeachBumBrent & Beach Bum B in Waikiki, & Custom Exclusive New Word: Oh'Toatoa { oh' TOE uh toe uh } ), Associated Keyword Collections, Tag Line: You. Want To Be Here., Associated OTA Logo, Associated DaBeachBum Logo(s), Video Start & Ends (Intro & Credits) with Audio Musical Snip containing Oahu Tourist Authority. You. Want To Be Here., My Likeness, and all other reasonable related material associated with DaBeachBum.
© 2014 by DaBeachBum of OahuTouristAuthority.com. All Rights Reserved.
DAY AT THE BEACH - HONOLULU - OAHU / HAWAII , USA
In this episode we are spending a day at remote beach. Vitya is opening coconut. On the way back we are trying to catch the bus. But bus never showed up...
В этой серии мы проводим день на отдалённом пляже. Витя борется с кокосом и побеждает. Назад мы пытаемся добраться на автобусе, но автобус не приходит...
Watch part 5 here:
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Perhaps one of the most visited cities in Hawaii is Honolulu. As the main metropolis on Oahu, this city is close to some of Hawaii's most luxurious beaches and notable attractions.
The island of Oahu has a coastline of about 112 miles (180 km). Oahu beaches are diverse and there is something for everyone – there are many great beaches for swimming, snorkeling, surfing, scuba diving, windsurfing, kayaking and relaxing. Most beaches on Oahu are sandy, and some have an offshore coral reef. A few beaches have little or no sand but are nevertheless popular, such as Shark's Cove, an excellent snorkeling and diving spot in the summer months. Beach sand in Hawaii comes in all kinds of shapes and colors.
Surfing and Cliff Jumping in Oahu, Hawaii | Beach Livin'
If you've never wanted to take a trip out to Oahu, Hawaii, this compilation of surfing and cliff jumping will definitely make you want to go!
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Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort, Honolulu, Hawaii, USA, 4-star hotel
Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort - book now
2005 Kalia Road, Waikiki, Honolulu, HI 96815, USA
Description: This 22-acre Hawaiian resort is on the shores of Waikiki Beach. It features over 20 restaurants and lounges, 90 shops and boutiques, and a 5,000-square foot family activity pool.
Restaurants include Bali Steak & Seafood, which serves formal dining in an open-air dinning area, overlooking Waikiki Beach. The Tropics Bar and Grill serves Hawaiian cuisine.
Downtown Honolulu is just 4.8 km from the Hilton Hawaiian Village. The Honolulu International Airport is 12.9 km away.
This is our guests' favorite part of Honolulu, according to independent reviews.
Waikiki is a great choice for travelers interested in Surfing, Beach and Relaxation.
Every Friday night, guests can enjoy a fireworks show at Hilton Hawaiian Village. A natural sanctuary at the resort features beautiful gardens and over 60 species of exotic animals.
Bright and spacious rooms at the Hilton Hawaiian Village have large windows that offer full or partial ocean views or views of the resort. They come with equipped cable TV and a refrigerator.
Hilton Hawaiian Village Waikiki Beach Resort, Honolulu, Hawaii, USA, 4-star hotel
100% Verified Reviews
Pluses:
The view and location was outstanding.
Proximity to the beach and pool areas
The location was great - easy access to beach, pools, nightly entertainment was also very enjoyable. Friday night fireworks was awesome. Room clean and comfortable.
This hotel is on the beach so good for families
Minuses:
Curtain falling off rod. We fixed it Had to move coffee pot outlet was not working
The prize is a bit too high.
High cost of restaurants and food
Big Island Cliff Fishing - New KastKing Baitcaster - Kiholo Bay Sesh Part 1
Aloha hui!
Today we head down to Big Islands Kiholo Bay for some Hawaii cliff fishing action. We start out getting a little invasive species out of an anchialine pond and make the hike over to the cliff side to get some lines in the water. I got the new KastKing Speed Demon Pro baitcaster reel that needed to get it's first sesh in, and we get it going. After a few fish we head back to the beach for lunch and more!
A hui hou!
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That Day by Joakim Karud
Creative Commons — Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported— CC BY-SA 3.0
“The News” Dj Quads (
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
#ShakaFishing #Fishing #Hawaii
BIG WAVE SURFING COMPILATION ** BALLS TO THE WALL ** 2017
** BALLS TO THE WALL ** BIG WAVE SURFING COMPILATION
60-100FT WALLS OF DEATH, * EXTREME SURFING *
Please Subscribe if You Would like to see More :)
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Music by
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Pua Aloha - Dick McIntire
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Cold Driven - Now That I'm Gone
MontageRock NoncopyrightRock
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No Resolve - Turning You Over
MontageRock NoncopyrightRock
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Compilation of the world's biggest waves ever surfed! World record waves around 100ft (30m) rogue waves, largest waves world record Biggest wave in the world Large wave, swell storm tsunami, jaws, teahupoo
Fear is always present in a 50-foot wave. Fear is the best way of managing the risk of paddling for a huge wave face, which doesn't tell you what is going to happen and how it is going to break.
The pioneers of big wave surfing started to eye impossible killer rides in the 1940's. In the 1960's, waves like Pipeline and Waimea increased the popularity of paddling into new wave heights. Going over the falls was the daily menu.
Laird Hamilton is the first professional big wave surfer. The waterman from Maui defies fast, hollow and high waves with a full-time training and previous preparation. Hamilton, the father of tow-in surfing, takes on the entire big wave spots of the Hawaiian Islands, in helicopter style.
Born in Kahului, Maui, Aikau was the third child of Solomon and Henrietta Aikau. He was a descendant of Hewahewa, the kahuna nui (high priest) of King Kamehameha I and his successor Kamehameha II.Aikau first learned how to surf at Kahului Harbor on its shorebreak. He moved to Oʻahu with his family in 1959, and at the age of 16 left school and started working at the Dole pineapple cannery; The paycheck allowed Aikau to buy his first surfboard. In 1968, he became the first lifeguard hired by the City & County of Honolulu to work on the North Shore. The City & County of Honolulu gave Aikau the task of covering all of the beaches between Sunset and Haleiwa. Not one life was lost while he served as lifeguard of Waimea Bay, as he braved waves that often reached 30 feet (9.1 m) high or more.In 1971, Aikau was named Lifeguard of the Year.
he saved over 500 people and became famous for surfing the big Hawaiian surf, Eddie Would Go
Duke Paoa Kahinu Mokoe Hulikohola Kahanamoku (August 24, 1890 – January 22, 1968) was a Native Hawaiian competition swimmer who popularized the ancient Hawaiian sport of surfing. He was born towards the end of the Kingdom of Hawaii, just before the overthrow, living into statehood as a United States citizen. He was a five-time Olympic medalist in swimming. Duke was also a law enforcement officer, an actor, a beach volleyball player and
b
Greg Noll (born February 11, 1937), nicknamed Da Bull by Phil Edwards in reference to his physique and way of charging down the face of a wave,is an American pioneer of big wave surfing and is also acknowledged as a prominent longboard shaper. Noll was a member of a US lifeguard team that introduced malibu boards to Australia around the time of the 1956 Melbourne Olympic Games. Noll also produced a legendary series of Search for Surf movies.
The 55 best big wave surfers of all time is an exclusive extreme surfing club. From Jaws to Mavericks, Puerto Escondido, Punta Lobos, Ghost Trees, Belharra, Shipstern Bluff and Todos Santos, these riders have set up a new scale in the definition of giant waves. They are.
Al Mennie
Anthony Tashnick
Ben Wilkinson
Bob Pike
Brock Little
Buzzy Trent
Carlos Burle
Chris Bertish
Danilo Couto
Darrick Doerner Darryl Virostko
Dave Kalama
Dave Wassel
Duke Kahanamoku
Eddie Aikau
Gabriel Villaran
Garrett McNamara
George Downing
Brad Gerlach
Gerry Lopez
Grant Twiggy Baker Grant Washburn
Greg Long
Greg Noll
Ian Walsh
Jamie Sterling
Jay Moriarty
Jeff Clark
Jeff Rowley
Jose Angel
João de Macedo
Kai Barger Keala Kennely
Ken Bradshaw
Ken Colllins
Koby Abberton
Kohl Christensen
Laird Hamilton
Laurie Towner
Mark Foo
Mark Healey
Mark Mathews
Mark Visser Maya Gabeira
Mike Parsons
Nathan Fletcher
Pat Curren
Peter Mel
Ramon Navarro
Richie Fitzgerald
Russell Bierke
Ross Clarke-Jones
Shane Dorian
Sion Milosky
Zach Wormhoudt $$$ huhi tsm windsurfing skt
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Radical Times in Hawaii
Hawaii. It’s big, it’s bold, and it’s reputation may be even bigger and bolder than itself. But all that aside, the enchanted island is diverse. From Muay Thai to Mai Tais, Waimea to Waikiki, Pipeline walls to highline stalls…there is something to suit everyone.
This year, our team attacked every angle. They stayed out late at night and paddled out before the sun. They did turns, punted airs and got barrelled. They rode everything from ten-foot slabs of concrete to twenty-foot slabs of unpredictable water. It was a bonafide Radical Time. So for your enjoyment, we thought we would combine these few weeks of bliss into an edit. Dig in, then start planning a Radical Time of your own to Hawaii — you really do owe it to yourself.
__________
Featured Surfers:
Ezekiel Lau - @zekelau
Kael Walsh - @kaelwalsh
Mikey February - @thevibesaregood
Ramzi Boukhiam - @ramziboukhiam
Leo Fioravanti - @lfioravanti
Matt Banting - @mattbanting
Wiggolly Dantas - @wiggolly
Jeremy Flores - @floresjeremy
Aritz Aranburu - @aritz_aranburu
Kanoa Igarashi - @kanoaigarashi
Marc Lacomare - @marclacomare
Connor O’Leary - @connoroleary
Michael Dunphy - @michaeldunphy
Jesse Mendes - @jesse_mendes
Zach Miller - @zakramiller
Koa Rothman - @koarothman
Reef Mcintosh - @happyreef76
Cody Young - @cody_young_
Production:
Film & Edit -
Jimmy Graham - @jimmy__graham
Additional Footage -
Dane Burnheim
Jacob Wooden
Michael Ikalani
Austin Novy
Jake Patterson
Brent Bielmann
Photography -
Peter Boskovich - @boskophoto
A-Frame - @aframephoto
Music -
Blaak Heat - Anatolia
Blaak Heat - Sword of Hakim
@blaakheat
Presented by:
Quiksilver - @quiksilver
Beachboys in Waikiki Buffalo Keaulana
Beachboys in Waikiki Buffalo Keaulana
Hawaii Plane Crash Caught on Tape | Good Morning America | ABC News
Watch the exclusive video of a small passenger plane making a crash landing on water on the way to Hawaii -- caught on tape using a GoPro. Luckily, all passengers were safe following the crash.
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See miraculous and dramatic survival stories from around the globe. Learn what US Soldiers in the field, surfers battling great white sharks, and domestic violence victims have in common -- their instinct to survive. Watch how to survive a shark attack, and how a man survives a skydiving fall. Get the tips and tricks from experts on how to survive in dire situations. Hear others harrowing stories of survival, near death experiences, fluke accidents and the fight to stay alive.
The Good Morning America (GMA) anchors Robin Roberts, George Stephanopoulos, Lara Spencer, and meteorologist Ginger Zee are your guide to those water cooler topics your coworkers are sure to be talking about. GMA brings viewers an award-winning combination of breaking news, exclusive investigations, hard hitting interviews, weather forecasts, cutting edge medical field information, and financial reporting every morning. Catch ABC’s daytime Emmy Award and GLAAD Media Award winning morning news show weekdays at 7am.
Make ABC News your daily news outlet for breaking national and world news, broadcast video coverage, and exclusive interviews that will help you stay up to date on the events shaping our world. ABC News’ show roster has both leaders in daily evening and morning programming. Kick start your weekday mornings with news updates from Good Morning America (GMA) and Sundays with This Week with George Stephanopoulos. Get your evening fix with 20/20, Nightline, and ABC World News Tonight with David Muir. Head to abc.go.com for programming schedule and more information on ABC News.
Surfing for the First Time in Hawaii
Baywatch was my favorite show growing up.
I knew the theme song by heart, I loved the dramatic rescues, and after seeing Kelly Slater gliding on top of the water, I wanted to surf just like him.
I finally got my chance when I went to the North Shore of Oahu last month for the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing tournament. After watching the pros dominate some of the biggest waves I’ve ever seen, I decided to try it myself, on a much smaller scale of course.
Brave enough to take on the task of teaching me was pro surfer Monyca Eleogram. Monyca was born and raised in Hana, Hawaii, and has been surfing for almost her entire life. I’ve seen her in action in GoPro videos and on the Roxy Billboard in Times Square, so as soon as she walked up, I knew I was in good hands.
I’m a proud product of a landlocked state, so Monyca decided to start me off with the basics. We went to a lagoon with really calm water, where she showed me the proper way to paddle out and pop up on the board. After a quick tutorial, she shared two important tips with me. First, she told me that using a big board in the beginning is crucial because it helps you with balance and is easier to maneuver. Secondly, she assured me that surfing should be fun and that I shouldn’t worry about looking like an idiot on the board. I would have to keep reminding myself about that second tip.
Before I knew it, I was paddling out into the big blue sea with a GoPro attached to my board, positioned to catch my every move. About 60 seconds in, I realized that I had the upper body strength of a toddler. I was already exhausted, and I hadn’t even “surfed” yet! Monyca laughed and paddled ahead, encouraging me to continue and move past the pain.
“OK, let’s catch this one,” Monyca enthusiastically shouted, as I tried to spin my board around and instead tipped over into the water. “Maybe the next one,” I replied, spitting out a mouthful of saltwater.
It took a few attempts for everything to come together, and a nearby surf instructor even pushed me into a few waves, which helped me get the hang of things. But then, it was like magic. I saw a wave, I paddled in, and I stood up and rode that sucker. It felt like flying. Even better, Monyca was riding the same wave next to me, so I felt like I was hanging with the cool kids.
Before the day was over, I caught a few more. It was exhilarating. Surfing is something that has been on my bucket list forever, and now that I’ve done it, I want to get good!
As for Kelly Slater. I’m not quite on his level just yet, but I did get to meet him that weekend, which made my first surfing experience feel like one of those full-circle moments Oprah is always talking about.
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